This cool, timber-lined rice wine and record bar on a busy Newtown strip has plenty of polish, but it’s the grittier edges that make things interesting. Chef Jemma Whiteman’s menu riffs on Japanese flavours with playful precision: tagliatelle with fermented shiitake has hit the counter at every service since day one for good reason – it’s wildly delicious – and the fried potato mochi, rolled in “everything” bagel seasoning and wrapped in nori, is all chewy umami. There’s soul on the turntables and funk in the food, as seen in the whipped bottarga, scooped with charred lettuce leaves instead of carbs; raw, translucent slivers of silver trevally with punchy kosho and persimmon dressing; and a zingy seasonal sorbet with kasu cream and sake jelly, which is like a traditional trifle with a Tokyo postcode. The service is warm, the vibe is cool, and there’s no better place to match small producer sakes with big-flavoured dishes.
Chef(s)
Jemma Whiteman
Price Guide
$$
Bookings
Not taken
Wheelchair Access
Yes
Opening Hours
Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sun
The Gourmet Traveller Team
