At Essa, no ingredient goes unsung. Take the floral sweetness of rivermint honey rounding out the spicy house-made ’nduja with “intentionally burnt” bread. Or the sea herbs, an unexpected but purposeful garnish, adorning the grilled Moreton Bay bug with bay leaf butter. Head chef and co-owner Phil Marchant’s mastery of the wood-fired grill is seen in the charred tri-tip steak, marinated in shio koji and served with deeply savoury king oyster mushrooms, parsnip purée, burnt greens and a jus made from the bones, and the seared swordfish skewer lifted with bright capsicum piperade and macadamia cream. These touches capture a whimsical elegance and attention to detail, as does a wine offering that champions organic and biodynamic producers. The narrow dining room is all sharp lines and flattering shadows, while the service is relaxed but engaged. Every element on the plate is explained with genuine enthusiasm – a testament to a restaurant at the peak of its powers.
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