You know that warm and fuzzy feeling – dare we say joy – that comes with exceptional hospitality? It’s hard to miss here. Owner-chef Sarah Baldwin and beverage expert Loren Mitchell-Moore are consummate hosts at this 10-seat counter. Calming herbal tea leads into a series of snacks, including wagyu tartare with pine nuts and fresh persimmon alongside honey butter crumpets. Next, a procession of refined, precisely timed courses. Seared lamb rump arrives with carrot barbecue sauce and hazelnut butter for a genius flavour match. Ditto the mandarin-infused olive oil with dulce de leche, goat’s cheese mousse and candied mandarin – a dessert as textural as it is delicious. Drinks go wonderfully off-piste, with by-the-glass options such as Albilla de Manchuela, an almost-extinct variety from Spain. When the food is this good and the company this nice, time slips away. A meal at Joy doesn’t just fill the stomach; it feeds the soul too.
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