Not an anchovy fan? Restaurant Labart’s white anchovies from Santoña in Cantabria might change your mind. Milder and meatier than the traditional kind, they’re simply laid on a plate and finished with a glug of top-quality olive oil. Effortless, simple dishes like this reflect the restaurant’s renewed less-is-more philosophy. The same restraint flows through the rest of the menu: charred king prawns in garlic prawn butter studded with capers, say, or stracciatella crowned with sweet and sour peppers, raisins and pinenuts. A shift in influence from Mediterranean to French has resulted in dishes like crisp confit duck leg with silky onion soubise offset by barbecued purple cabbage and soft rhubarb. Clean interiors with leather banquettes and sage-green panelling, a sharp French-leaning wine list (aligoté? Yes, please!), and outrageously well-priced specials ensure Alex and Karla Munoz Labart’s labour of love shines with zero fuss but plenty of polish.
Price Guide
$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair Access
No
Opening Hours
Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sat
The Gourmet Traveller Team
