Chef and restaurateur Neil Perry’s electric A-list favourite is a temple of top-tier produce, where the steaks would steal the show if only everything else wasn’t equally on point. Sourced from the country’s most storied producers, the sprawling, seasonally driven menu, which includes those famous Blackmore and CopperTree Farms beef cuts, celebrates exceptional local ingredients, prepared with pared-back confidence, precise grilling skills, and a little pan-Asian pixie dust that’s become synonymous with Mr Perry. Pristine coral trout arrives pearlescent and amped-up with a fermented XO butter; wood-fired mushrooms get extra savouriness from smoke, salted chilli and preserved radish; and the triangular “crisp and creamy” potatoes are possibly Sydney’s best spuds. Service is as polished and approachable as the comprehensive wine list – glasses are rarely empty and the room is full of high spirits – while the vibe is sleek, confident and fancy without being exclusionary.
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