Discovering Pilot at the back of a suburban shopping strip is the first surprise during a visit to the quietly brilliant fine-diner. Owners Dash Rumble and Ross McQuinn, along with chef Mal Hanslow, present an astute take on Australian culture and cooking via a playful tasting menu. You’ll start with M.S.P. – Mal’s Snack Pack – which turns classic treats such as fish and chips into inventive canapés. A duck rissole with riberry and juniper nods to beloved film The Castle (“What do you call this again?”), while sharp slices of peach and tomato form a refreshingly savoury fruit salad. The retro Banana Buzz trifle is a high-end take on what Nanna used to make. The 24-seat room is simply stylish, with vintage furniture, interesting art and hits from the likes of Powderfinger on the stereo. An all-Australian drinks list brims with interesting wine pairings. Or try an alcohol-free drink to match – perhaps curry-tinged turmeric and fenugreek soda – yet another delicious surprise.
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