Porcine has always been about fun times with wine and swine. While the boisterous bistro’s Francophile drinks list – and its simpatico relationship with downstairs bottle shop P&V – is undiminished, some of its finest moments now happen away from the pig. By giving even more airtime to seasonal vegetables and animals that don’t oink, co-owners Matthew Fitzgerald, Harry Levy and Nik Hill have gifted Paddington an amiable French all-rounder. Chef Hill’s dishes, such as a Provençal-style saddle of lamb, trevally tartare with hen’s egg and horseradish, or wild mushroom vol-au-vents, mean having a memorable meal is easier than ever. Mainstays, such as the creton with lentils or an aged pork chop with choucroute and juniper, remain sublime. Porcine is enthusiastic about classic cooking, whole-carcass butchery and congenial service. But between its broadened menu upstairs, and its aperitif-ready menu at new downstairs wine bar L’Avant Cave, it feels like a whole new beast.
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