Listing a dish called McScallop – a flavour bomb with a fried Abrolhos scallop doused in crab-fat sauce sandwiched in a pandesal (Filipino-style dinner roll) – clearly signposts big flavours and good times ahead. It’s certainly the case at Serai where chef Ross Magnaye’s wood-grill skills, Filipino heritage and robust creativity result in a lengthy list of bangers: a miraculous combo of smoked pineapple, spiced coconut and caviar; smoky pigs-head tacos enriched with egg butter; or grill-scorched calamari teamed with a hefty smoked ’nduja. It’s food suited to a group, just like the industrial laneway space where great tunes and on-theme cocktails (Editha’s Negroni is a smoky delight, substituting gin for rum) deliver party vibes. But it’s not just fun and games. There’s serious skill and intent here too, best displayed in Magnaye’s deft spicing (see: the impressively complex, sticky adobo sauce elevating grilled lamb ribs) that’s consistently satisfying.
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