It says something that Stillwater turning 25 isn’t its most remarkable story. Nor is its location, though the Tamar-side dining room in a historical mill building with silvery river views is a perennially welcome respite from the real world. What’s most remarkable is how fresh, enthusiastic and engaged it is. Having hands-on owners (Bianca Welsh, her sommelier husband James, and chef Craig Will) helps, particularly when they’re this adept at retaining personable staff well-versed in explaining Will’s imaginative, cuisine-hopping treatment of excellent local produce. Addictive wallaby wings might be teamed with a resonant gochujang glaze, pitch-perfect gnocchi rubs shoulders with local mushrooms, juicy roasted quail lands flavoured with vadouvan and paprika, while Tasmanian scallops might share their shell with miso, mustard and lemon butter. Add a wine list that benchmarks local labels against fine stuff from around the globe and it’s only fitting that we raise a glass to 25 more.Â
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