Etta owner Hannah Green has an instinctive hospo brain. It’s apparent in the way she and her staff work the room with well-informed enthusiasm, while the marble, terrazzo and upholstery-detailed split-level dining space delivers timeless style and immediate ease. Most significantly, it’s in her collaboration with chefs who understand Etta’s modern neighbourhood bistro vibe. The latest, Lorcán Kan, is totally in sync with Green’s ethos. Dishes like a tea quail egg skewer teamed with pickled lotus root and chilli oil, a crisp-roasted duck leg with green chilli, sorrel and translucent cubes of aloe jelly, or an ethereal ginger cake with banana miso caramel demonstrate Kan’s deft understanding of exciting flavour combinations that always deliver deliciousness. The drinks list is a cracker too, excellent cocktails rubbing shoulders with Old and New World labels that emphasise a sense of place, it’s the perfect match for an instinctively excellent local diner.
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