In another instalment of “where did the time go”, Fico is now nudging a decade on Hobart’s Macquarie Street. But where (nearly) 10 years might see some adopt cruise mode, owner-chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi continue to surprise with both creativity and craft. The nine-course set menu comes in two speeds, Classic and Gourmand, the latter adding luxury items like caviar (generously piled on an exquisite cube of soy-seasoned kingfish) and truffles (shaved over brilliant mushroom stuffed-cappelli del prete). There’s Euro skill in dishes like pretty, finely tuned quail en croute and Japanese influence with a thrillingly light chawanmushi, the custard studded with eggplant and tuna, while locally produced ingredients headline a buffalo milk crème caramel and grilled wild-shot venison. The room has aged well too, with charming art and mismatched furniture mirroring an eclectic continent-jumping approach to both food and wine that feels both mature and fresh.
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