Sixpenny is now a teenager – just as experimental but with none of the attitude. Chef-owner Daniel Puskas has spent 13 years shaping an innocuous terrace in sleepy Stanmore into one of Australia’s most serene fine-diners, with head chef Tony Schifilliti adding the funk and ferment. It takes serious swagger to serve bread with the same reverence as the rest of a seven-course tasting menu, and just look at the jars of garum and shoyu lining the shelves for proof of the team’s commitment to fermentation. That dedication is deployed in signature dishes, such as freshwater marron brushed with coral trout butter, salted banana ice-cream, or new entrants like Oberon lamb rack, aged with beeswax and lavender and finished with fermented milk sauce. Ageing is everywhere, from rice pancakes to nashi pear scales that seal cured silver trevally. Many of the staff here count their tenure in years, not months, because they also know good things take time.
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