A tiramisù prepared tableside surely needs time to develop its flavours? Not if that tiramisù is created by the expert hand of Giovanni Pilu, who knows exactly how to coax maximum impact from house-made savoiardi biscuits, mirto bianco liqueur and generous waves of mascarpone in front of diners’ eyes. It’s a masterful way to end a meal at this beachfront icon, which draws on the culinary traditions of Pilu’s birthplace, Sardinia, in every dish. Pre-tiramisù, trust the sure-footed team to steer you towards curls of Abrolhos octopus presented “sa schiscionera” (braised in its own juices, then cooked over charcoal). Pastas might be a tumble of spaghetti, blond with crab meat and bottarga, while the juicy suckling pig has been the menu’s hero dish for more than 20 years. When you can drag your attention from the food – and the wide-ranging regional Italian wine list – the views of swell-riding surfers make a charming backdrop.
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