Yusuke Oba
Following Song Bird’s last service in August, Neil and Sam Perry’s latest Italian venture, Gran Torino, is already proving popular. The venue comes to life as a double-storey Italian restaurant, drawing on Perry’s prior experience with Italian cuisine via his two iterations of Rosetta in Sydney and Melbourne. Now, its more casual adjunct, Bar Torino, opens on Friday 19 September.
Downstairs in the former Bobbie’s basement site, Bar Torino is a “place to drop into for a meal, a snack, a drink or all of the above” — think sputini, antipasti and some larger plates. Highlights include Albacore tuna crudo with olive and almond tapenade; chicken liver pâté with marsala jelly, crostini and pickles; and, for larger meals, lasagne Bolognese and a crumbed chicken pizzaiola. “The drinks list is driven by classic Italian spirits: Campari, Aperol and vermouth,” Perry tells Gourmet Traveller, with a neat wine list of Australian, Italian and French drops.
As with its upstairs counterpart, Collette Dinnigan was enlisted to transform the intimate subterranean space, which now boasts a Campari mural that runs the length of the room, along with eye-catching Italian posters of a bygone era.
Upstairs, Gran Torino’s 130-seat space has walls adorned with more than 50 photographs, many depicting nostalgic scenes from the ‘50s and ‘60s. Outside, 30 additional alfresco seats will overlook Bay Street. Meanwhile, the menu reflects the seasons as is “the basis of all Italian cooking”, with the menu influenced by what is at the market that day. “Antipasti and pasta to begin, followed by seafood and meat for mains,” says Perry.
This might look like fritto misto di mare with king prawns, squid, scallops and coral trout; agnolotti del plin plump with veal and guinea fowl; Wollemi duck cacciatora served with fried polenta; or a 1kg dry-aged Bistecca alla Fiorentina, served with a selection of condiments. In line with the rest of the menu, desserts lean classic with tiramisú, rum baba and bomboloni filled with vanilla cream and raspberry conserve on offer.
“The change to Gran Torino [is] a better fit with Margaret, and the more approachable menu and laidback setting will have people wanting to return time and time again for drinks, casual bites and celebrations,” says Perry.
With the new direction comes a changing of the guard. Executive chef of the award-winning Margaret, Richard Purdue, will oversee the Gran Torino kitchen alongside Margaret’s current head chef, Ervin Mumajesi. Song Bird head chef Mark Lee will relocate to Margaret as head chef alongside Perry.
“We missed the mark by creating a three-level Chinese restaurant in Double Bay,” admitted Neil Perry, in a statement. “Now, we’ve got the size right over two levels and – just as importantly – acoustics that have finally been tamed, we’re ready to move forward into a new future.”
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