Amid the sizzling stoves of culinary programs, few have managed to turn humble meat into haute cuisine quite like PorkStar. For two decades, this initiative from Australian Pork has been the industry’s most delicious disruptor, transforming snout-to-tail cooking from rustic necessity into an art form that would impress the most discerning critic. Since 2005, PorkStar has been the catalyst behind some of Australia’s most inventive dishes, proving that when you give brilliant chefs the freedom to play with pork, magic happens. This year’s 20th anniversary celebration at Sydney’s historic Strand Arcade was nothing short of a porcine poetry slam, where the country’s culinary stars gathered to honour a program that has fundamentally changed how we think about this protein.
The evening showcased the creative prowess of the nation’s top chefs, with collaborative dishes that pushed culinary boundaries. Ben Williamson partnered with Paul Farag on an innovative main course, while Blaze Young crafted exceptional snacks that delighted guests. However, it was chef Lauren Eldridge (Paisano and Daughters) who presented a decadent pork fat crème caramel ‘with crunchy’ bits that became the evening’s standout dessert. Baked in individual tins and topped with crackling, Eldridge’s ingenious pork fat crème caramel perfectly embodied PorkStar’s mission to inspire creative uses of Australian pork.
How did you get into cooking?
I started working part-time in a small patisserie and loved it. From there I went on to join a catering company and start my apprenticeship while studying baking and pastry at TAFE. After the first year, I moved into restaurants, and I’ve never looked back. I love baking all sorts of pastries and desserts, but designing restaurant-style desserts is what I truly enjoy.
Did you always know you wanted to be a pastry chef?
No! I studied psychology at university for a few years before becoming a pastry chef. I realised that if I was going to build a career and spend the next 40 years working, I wanted it to be something that I truly loved, which was making desserts and pastries.
Let’s talk about the pork fat crème caramel – where did the idea come from?
Continental Deli, part of the Paisano and Daughters family, has served a ‘Flan in a Can’ for many years. It’s a crowd favourite. I wanted to serve something people could recognise and love, even with the point of difference from the pork.
Fat is a great way to carry flavour. It’s also an ingredient I’m familiar with. So I was able to substitute pork fat for some of the traditional fats in the crème caramel. The sweetness from the caramel topping and the creaminess from the dairy balanced out the pork flavour. The pork fat made the texture of the custard even more silky and smooth than normal.
Do you have plans to use any other traditionally savoury ingredients in your desserts? If so, what would it be?
I don’t use a lot of traditional savoury ingredients as the star in the way the pork fat was. But I think most desserts and pastry can be improved with a little bit of salt and acid, whether that’s lemon juice or a vinegar. For example, caramels made with sherry vinegar really help balance the sweetness and the bitterness.
You’ve recently-ish joined Paisano and Daughters. Beyond dessert and pastry, what’s your go-to dish at their establishments?
One of the many great things about working at Paisano and Daughters, is how many restaurant options I have to choose from. At Mister Grotto, I love the barbecue abalone served with a sauce made from its livers. My current favourite at Continental Deli, is the pork belly with black garlic glaze. At Osteria Mucca, it’s the gnudi with brown butter and sage.
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