Not long after arriving in Australia from Istanbul in 2015, Ozge Kalvo remembers eating at The Apollo, one of the Sydney’s most beloved – and energetic – Greek restaurants. To this day, she says a lingering taste of the restaurant’s rich oxtail orzo stays with her. But The Apollo Group, led by Jonathan Barthelmess and Sam Christie, wouldn’t feature prominently in her life beyond some persistent taste memories for many more years, when the Turkish-born Kalvo would join the team at Olympus, their latest venture into the world of Mediterranean cuisine.
Before then, the Gastronomy and Culinary Arts graduate spent several years immersing herself in the Sydney dining scene at some of the city’s best restaurants including Anason, Ester and Baba’s Place. During her three years at Ester, in particular, she refined her fire-cooking skills, spending most days coaxing flavour and texture from proteins, vegetables, fruit and bread using the Chippendale restaurant’s arched wood-fired oven. From there, she began hosting Ester pop-ups, which gave her the chance to flex her fire-cooking muscles while focusing on Turkish fare. This is where the Apollo team first took notice of her skills, culminating in her debut head chef role at Olympus when it opened in December 2024.
The food Kalvo cooks at Olympus reads resolutely Greek at first glance, and certainly it’s a cuisine that she cooks with great confidence. But look closely and you can find hints of her Turkish background, such as the sprinkles of chilli that top the restaurant’s take on an avgolemono soup. What diners don’t see, of course, is how she runs her kitchen alongside her team. It’s a behemoth of an operation; Olympus seats 200 people and is open for lunch and dinner every day. That’s a lot of restaurant to run, and a lot of steady-handed organisation needed to ensure it all goes smoothly.
According to former colleagues, Kalvo’s temperament and palate make her perfect for this role. She is, says Baba’s Place co-owner Jean-Paul El Tom, “obsessed with food, and always pushes for new flavour and technique.” Just as important, she’s endlessly composed under pressure. “She is level-headed and calm when faced with challenges,” he says. “And she never lets frustrations muddy a beautiful kitchen.” And that, for us, is a recipe for an outstanding restaurant.
Find all finalists for the Gourmet Traveller Best New Talent Award here. To see the full list of winners in this year’s Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Awards, head over here.
Past winners of the Best New Talent Award
- 2024: Mischa Tropp, Toddy Shop, Melbourne VIC
- 2023: Ollie Wong-Hee, Bar Heather, Bryon Bay NSW
- 2022: Mug Chen and Chia Wu, Muni, Willunga SA
- 2021: Jung Eun Chae, Chae, Brunswick VIC
- 2020: Due to COVID-19, a Hospitality Honours List was introduced in lieu of Restaurant Awards
- 2019: Alanna Sapwell, Arc Dining, Brisbane QLD
- 2018: Ali Currey-Voumard, The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery, New Norfolk TAS
- 2017: Josh Niland, Saint Peter, Sydney NSW
- 2016: Thi Le, Anchovy, Melbourne VIC
- 2015: Lennox Hasie, Firedoor, Sydney NSW
- 2014: Scott Huggins and Emma McCaskill, Penfolds Magill Estate, Adelaide SA
- 2013: Sam Ward, El Público, Perth WA
- 2012: Alejandro Cancino, Urbane, Brisbane QLD
- 2011: Luke Burgess, Garagistes, Hobart TAS
- 2010: Matt Stone, Greenhouse, Perth WA
- 2009: Ryan Squires, The Buffalo Club, Brisbane QLD
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