Restaurant Reviews

A changing of the kitchen guard takes a Perth CBD favourite in an unexpected but welcome new direction.

We go in search of the hottest new slices to be found across the country.

At Scott Pickett’s smooth new clubhouse expect old-school French flavours, reworked for the modern day.

With new-look dining rooms and some of Perth's best pizza, there's no denying the allure of this inner-city tavern. And you really, really should order the Il Capo.

With a broad menu, an all-star cast and Karen Martini overseeing the show, the all-day restaurant at ACMI is a drawcard.

Located 15 minutes from the Adelaide CBD, the restaurant lives up to the hype with impressive dishes to match its wine and views.

A modern Korean fine-diner offers twists on traditional dishes with finesse, with a rule-breaking bibimbap, red snapper hwe with karkalla, and Brussels sprouts kimchi.

A new waterfront home for the Italian fine-dining restaurant proves a winning combination in Brisbane. And how about that $70 pasta?

Kokis, hoppers and a thali you won't forget any time soon. This Sri Lankan-inspired bistro and bar is spicing things up in regional Victoria.

With a focus on top-quality produce, the sum is greater than its parts at this Burleigh gem.

It's always good to know Tipo 00 is there ready with a soul-warming plate of pasta.

An off-the-grid property powered by solar energy, organic certification, plus a farm and winery. Arimia walks the sustainability talk.

The room's design might channel a big-city American version of a Parisian bistro but the menu is quintessentially Melburnian. Come for the bistro classics and high-detail cocktails; stay for dessert.

Bee Satongun has won accolades for her Paste restaurants in Bankgok and Luang Prabang, and the Mittagong iteration is worth hitting the road for.

Backed by serial restaurateur Scott Pickett and manned by long-time head chef Arté Assavakavinvong, the Melbourne Thai restaurant has had a few tweaks, but it still hits the mark.

It hasn't been an easy ride for this Victorian fine-dining restaurant. But judging by the food, service and polished dining room, you wouldn't know it.

The Perth institution might have old-school ideals, but this polished dining room also has an eye on the now.

With Lee Ho Fook and Longrain alumni running the show, expect delights of the earthly and culinary kind.

Clever cooking, a pescatarian menu plus a refreshed dining room equals a Sydney diner that's less drab and more fab.

Truth be told, the clientele of the Highgate establishment spent longer pondering the drinks than the food. But with a new chef in the kitchen, guests might want to rethink their priorities.

If there's anywhere you want to trust with a "feed me" option, it's here.

With impeccable service, a mastery of Cantonese cooking and one of the greatest restaurant entrances in Australia, the Melbourne institution does all the classics without the stasis.

Chef Ben Williamson is heating up the city's dining scene once again, with flame- and smoke-kissed dishes that are innovative without being intimidating.

At this Red Hill spot it feels less restaurant, writes Michael Harden, and more like lunch at a friend's house, in the best way possible.

At Coogee Pavilion's highly anticipated new restaurant, Merivale has spared no expense. And so it seems, neither will diners, writes Karlie Verkerk.

The latest eatery on Carlton's main drag may not be Italian, but its fine service, bold chefs and a must-order potato dish tells a story of change, charm and new culinary directions.

They've moved up the road sans wood-fire oven, but that hasn't stopped the Sydney restaurant from serving good, honest food backed up with a commitment to sustainability.

From the folks behind Neighbourhood Wine comes a fine local bistro with wood-fired dishes that reference the chef's South African heritage, and a sweet and smoky pork chop that just won't quit.

Elektra’s pan-European approach is a shift in the right direction, writes Michael Harden. And let's talk about that potato snack.

XOPP, the next step for Sydney's Golden Century, strikes a balance between old and new, writes David Matthews.

Sure, Pasi Petänen can spin Pacojets with the best of them. But with his new, permanent home in Sydney's Inner West, the chef and serial pop-up artist shows he can still win at the basics.

It may be located in the Melbourne CBD, but French bistro Bar Margaux takes its inspiration from the city that never sleeps.

A talented chef, a less-is-more approach, and how about that chip butty. Sydney's the Old Fitzroy Hotel is essential pub dining.

Modern Chinese in Brisbane, a Sichuan empire in Melbourne and addictive Hunanese in Sydney. These are the best spots for a Chinese feed according to our 2020 Restaurant Guide.

Two top chefs in their prime present a culinary collaboration that could have serious staying power, writes David Matthews. And how about that tenshindon.

At Navi, Julian Hills’ creative focus is evident from produce to plate, writes Michael Harden.

Your cheat sheet to the best slices in the country.

Our favourite places to grab a bargain bite, according to our 2020 Restaurant Guide.

Brunch and a batch brew? Avocado toast and a flat white? These are the best cafés in the country right now according to our GT 2020 Restaurant Guide.

With our growing familiarity with wattleseed and finger limes, some would say that the quest to bring Australian ingredients into the national vocabulary is over. Over 22 courses at Orana, it’s clear that we’re just getting started.

There's plenty of eating and drinking to do in the Top End.

At this Melbourne restaurant, chef Michael Li plays with classic Chinese flavours for all-in good times.

A former Attica staffer with a cracking wine list, and a talented new chef churning out snacks that leave you wanting more. Neighbourhood bistro Etta is going from strength to strength.

We don’t usually buy the unlike-any-other-venue-in-Sydney speak. But Mary’s Underground is.

The Pilot crew have CVs that dot-point time spent at Momofuku Seiobo, Automata and Ester. The result? A restaurant for the here and now that elevates the expectations of what Canberra dining can be.

Tansy's has returned, this time in regional Victoria. It's all classics and class, and serving sardines so beautiful they could make a grown man cry. Time to set the GPS to Kyneton.

At Pipit, the newest destination restaurant in the Northern Rivers region, an ex-Noma chef and original Byron boy takes his cues from the coast and the community.

Two young chefs, two established venues, lots of excellent snacks. This is a tale of two wine bars – 10 William St, and Love, Tilly Devine – and their place in the city of lockouts.

Don't come to Di Stasio Città to count your pennies. Here, hedonism is creed, and indulgence is the name of the game.

Say ciao to these top-notch kitchens.

In a world of fast food fashion, Est bucks the trend, delivering good food and service that never go out of style.

Come for the stunning location, stay for the menu highlights – Sebastian brings seaside Basque charm to bayside Williamstown.

From beloved trattorias serving traditional fare to first-rate kitchens buzzing with creativity and experimentation.

Look no further, a genuinely good plate of fresh pasta is only a booking away.

Once battered, twice-fried? Or hand-cut and dry-filleted? Fish and chips may be humble, but getting it right is serious business. Here are 12 of the best versions from around the country, from no frills to extra fancy.

From food courts to fine-dining, regional specialities to dim sum, the array of Chinese on offer in Sydney just keeps getting better.

The long-awaited Italian sequel to Restaurant Hubert swings from groundbreaking to traditional, with fun at the top of the list of priorities.

A one-time Daylesford favourite, Kazuki’s is bringing small-town charm to Carlton with clever cooking and no shortage of technical prowess.

With Spritzes on tap, wood-fired pizza and a prime spot on the Yarra, Arbory Afloat is an Italo party not to be missed.

The food is Italian-ish, with swagger. Don Peppino’s godfathers write their own rules.

From wood-fired to dry-aged, salt-crusted to sharing-style, we've rounded up the definitive list of top steaks across the city so you'll never have to eat a bad one again.

Handmade and hand-crafted, Sáng by Mabasa expands the definition of Korean dining in Sydney.

Scott Pickett’s wood-fired foray south of the Yarra delivers casual elegance in spades.

French bistro cuisine, modern Australian fare or pan-Asian classics - there's a restaurant to cater to every palate in the nation's capital. Here are the crème de la crème, as featured in our 2019 Restaurant Guide.

Whether it's a late-night dive, a brew-pub or a cave à manger you fancy, Australia's new wave of watering holes has it covered. Time to pull on your drinking shoes.

REVIEW By day, in its café incarnation, Močan (they pronounce it ‘mochan’) pumps, locals lining up outside and packing onto outdoor seats. By night, it’s quieter, which gives you some elbow room to mix the egg yolk into your Crookwell steak tartare. Raw scallop is served as is with lightly charred chorizo, and Narooma oysters […]

Meet the new-in-town players making their mark on the Harbour City.

The best of the best on Australia's food scene, as featured in our 2019 Restaurant Guide.

REVIEW The latest venture from Scott Pickett (Estelle, ESP) is a luxe, superbly conceived local eatery. Diners experience the heat and smoke from the wood-fired kitchen at the entry as they make their way to the leather and timber-clad dining room. It’s a drum roll for what’s next – nearly every dish takes cues from […]

REVIEW Five years on, Eightysix continues to impose its disruptive and noisy self on Canberra’s dining scene. The youthful ebullience of floor staff hasn’t waned and it’s still difficult for walk-ins to get a seat. The menu – chalked up on a blackboard spanning the elongated space – has also proven a touch too resistant […]

REVIEW While the name evokes images of checked cloths and wax-encrusted Chianti bottles, Italian & Sons is a niftily modern affair. Pendant lamps cast a glow across a buzzy, sleek, timber-panelled space, and the wine list contrasts edgy naturals with the legends of Tuscany and Piedmont. The kitchen turns out classic pizze and pasta, but […]

REVIEW The setting for celebrations, dalliances and political manoeuvres, this Canberra stalwart has tradition woven into its fabric. The long space opening onto greenery and a water feature fosters serenity, no matter how busy the action on the floor, and the staff’s dignified, warm demeanour speaks of a justifiable pride. The noise is all in […]

Take a peek inside Sydney’s best watering holes, from underground spirit specialists to the spots with the best ocean views.

REVIEW A peaceful lakeside setting, a decorous welcome; this wedding conference- restaurant destination emanates Old World charm. But it’s in the hushed, spacious dining room with clinking cutlery and low voices that you get the big reveal: a bold menu and extensive wine list showcase the region’s best in a modern way. Cowra pork belly […]

REVIEW Fresh from a stint at Magill Estate Restaurant, chef Emma McCaskill’s first solo venture is with restaurateur-of-the-moment Simon Kardachi at a cosy eatery. The updated space and menu results in a refined bistro focused on regional food and wine. Brine-soaked sardine with chilli relish on a linseed cracker, topped with pickled shallot and dill, […]

REVIEW When restaurateur Chris Lucas puts his stamp on a cuisine, you can expect his take to be bold. And much like its raucous siblings Chin Chin and Hawker Hall, Kisumé is a Japanese restaurant with the volume turned up. Here, though, that energy doesn’t come via music ricocheting off concrete, but rather three levels […]

REVIEW An aria calls for a stand-out soloist – but there are no histrionic prime donne here. In its tenth year, Brisbane’s premier riverfront fine-diner presents as a harmonious group performance, from deft floor staff to the polished interior with its panoramic curve of glass. All up, it’s an agreeably adult affair, which includes Danny’s […]

REVIEW A year after opening, The Summertown Aristologist has expanded beyond radiating good vibes as an on-trend hangout to place Adelaide Hills provenance at the centre of every plate. The kitchen’s hands-on commitment is serious, from making smallgoods to pulling vegetables from local plots hours before service. Robust saucisson with Hafod cheddar is a smart […]

REVIEW It’s nearly a decade since Urbane revealed its minimalist look, but the polished gallery-like setting remains crisp. So to the technique-driven dishes, now being conjured by a fresh team following the departure of Alejandro Cancino. Herbivore options have lost dazzle with the changing of the guard, but an array of intriguing snacks kick off […]

REVIEW No need to beware the Ides of March 2018, when the restaurant whipped back the curtains on the makeover it deserved. A sign of commitment to the fine-dining-with-a-difference cause, the formerly austere shopfront was anointed with sleek timber-slatted cladding and artworks injecting a hint of a retro sensibility. The more relaxed approach is another […]

REVIEW Lûmé has put its provocative adolescent past behind it, maturing into one of Melbourne’s most interesting dining experiences. Innovation remains integral to its DNA, starting with cocktails at the superbly tended bar where distilling, dehydration and carbonation come into play. It’s there in the flatteringly lit dining room that silky olive oil and mandarin […]

REVIEW There are people who, somewhere along the way, got the idea that “produce-driven” meant “boring”. Luckily, Bent Street is here to quietly explode any such ideas with blasts of flavour conjured from seasonal bounty. Blood plums provide the acid flash that animates grilled hand-pressed tofu, while vivid tomato and cardamom frame deeply flavoursome grilled […]

REVIEW This place pumps. In full flow it’s more akin to The Apollo where James Brown sweated out his hottest performances than the Apollo of the tunics and lyres. But for all the darkness, din and hustle, the attention to detail from the kitchen is splendid. Would you look at the flaky delicacy of that […]

REVIEW Remarkable views of the southern Grampians are given full cinematic treatment in the new building housing chef Robin Wickens’ flagship restaurant at the Royal Mail Hotel. Captured by floor-to-ceiling glass, the vista anchors the sense of place Wickens expresses on the plate through produce grown in the hotel’s gardens and meat raised on nearby […]

REVIEW An evening at Acme is like kicking on at your mate’s place after a big night out. There’s Drake and Cardi B on the stereo. Staff greet you like the party couldn’t start until you got there. And the best part? Your mate’s a banging cook whose combinations blow your mind. On the menu, […]

REVIEW Luxury takes many forms. While the walls of this solid, two-storey villa all but groan under the weight of owner Armando Percuoco’s collection of fine art, you get the feeling that he is personally moved just as much by the ratio of tomato, bread and oil on the bruschetta as he is by the […]

REVIEW What if the ultimate hangover cure wasn’t greasy bacon or burgers? Meet some of the most vibrant, flavour-first Chinese in the city. It’s fresh and fast and you’ll find it at a revamped pub. The menu steers clear of oil and gloppy sauces. Oversized xiao long bao are way better than they need to […]

REVIEW Nowhere is the connection between Kylie Kwong’s Chinese-Australian heritage and her understanding of place more clear than in her dishes fusing native ingredients with Cantonese cuisine. They’re no gimmick. The tartness of Davidson’s plum balances crisp-skinned duck with orange; the acid-pop of finger lime plays crucial foil to the XO sauce and lardons of […]

REVIEW Brisbane’s flagship French destination is now bigger, brighter and better. A relocation has added grandeur, without diluting Montrachet’s Old World ambience. Aged timber flooring, gilt-framed mirrors and burgundy leather banquettes are all present, but the handsome marble-topped comptoir is now bordered by a glassed-in cellar, as befits a list loaded with namesake chardonnay and […]

REVIEW The beachy jet-set fantasy conjured by the boutique likes of Halcyon House often comes undone at the table. But Paper Daisy doubles down on the magic, perfectly in tune with the blend of poolside ease and inspiration that makes this hotel such an intoxicating treat. At breakfast, pancakes are leavened with kefir, and whole-wheat […]

REVIEW There’s a frog on our table. No, our uninvited visitor isn’t on the menu, but plenty of other items from this rural restaurant’s multi-acre garden are: kipfler potatoes (roasted), heirloom tomatoes (fried), just-picked green leaves (lightly dressed with horseradish). Using local produce isn’t novel, but Alex Delly’s way with flavours and textures is deft. […]

REVIEW The city’s best ’80s playlist and fluent floor staff lend an undeniable sense of fun to this 40-seater, where supple leather booths and sculptured copper bring a sense of occasion. Ponder the premium wine list then opt for a five- or eight-course dégustation or go à la carte at lunch and weekday dinners. Chef […]

REVIEW Ishizuka brings the Tokyo vibe from the start with a bamboozling location involving unmarked entrances, buzzers and an elevator ride to the basement. There’s payoff for the navigation angst. Tomotaka Ishizuka’s serene 16-seater, its scene set with a paper-lantern room divider and textured concrete walls, offers a sublime 11-course kaiseki experience complete with thrillingly […]

REVIEW Spice Temple is the glam Chinese diner for all occasions, from yum cha to gala banquets or zodiac-themed cocktails in the bar. An upbeat playlist sets the scene in a Sino-accented space split between a refined dining room overlooking Southbank and a basement with ample mood. Menus are typically expansive but the wine card […]

REVIEW Whoa! What a piece of fish. When was the last time you saw wild barramundi on a menu? Here it’s free of the muddiness of the farmed stuff, its texture firm, a garnish of muntries and anchovyflecked grilled broccoli giving it a winning indigenous agrodolce vibe. But what’s with this shallow saucer smeared with […]

REVIEW Marion is the kind of place where a casual night out requires a week’s planning. Securing a table is the only pain you’ll have, however. There’ll be no head-scratching over the love for Andrew McConnell’s little wine bar that rose to the top of his Gertrude Street pops. Take a space with a patina […]

REVIEW Clinton McIver’s four- and eight-course dégustations are ready for their close-ups. Arriving on hand-shaped crockery, combinations like smoked duck ham curled along a length of crisp fermented carrot or slivers of shiitake and chawanmushi drifting in a sparkling broth are as good-looking as they are well balanced. Sourdough bread is a course in itself, […]

REVIEW “Dining hall” has something of an undergraduate vibe, but rare is the cafeteria that offers wallaby, let alone served cured, rolled up in pickled vine leaves with dollops of burnt-onion purée. The bones of this diner still reflect the room’s former Belgian-Beer-Café life; service is more friendly than professional, and the drinks list is […]

REVIEW Woodland House is a quiet champion of finer Melbourne dining. The service is witty and warm, and its two chefs have made a restaurant they took over from their mentor, Jacques Reymond, their own. The grey-walled dining rooms of the Victorian mansion are cosseting and contemporary. Shelves heave with decanters for a wine list […]

REVIEW There’s a hint of Alice in Wonderland about Oscillate Wildly: the narrow dining room, the black-and-white tiled floor, the sense of falling down an inner-west rabbit hole and meeting brilliant minds – from kitchen talent to front of house – along the way. Karl Firla’s dégustations are pure imagination. Creamy avocado with bergamot dressing […]