Paul Farag’s Martin Place diner is Sydney’s north star when it comes to polished Middle Eastern and North African cuisine. From the mezze section, don’t miss ful medames – a classic Egyptian bean stew – intensified with bone marrow and black walnuts, best scooped up with golden Khorasan pita. Otherwise, go for the Moreton Bay bug chopped through rich chicken-fat orzo and dotted with trout roe. Crack into the double-glazed skin of the Murray cod masgouf, or embrace the lamb neck shawarma with tarator (tahini and garlic dressing) as it surrenders onto a crumpled Saida saj flatbread – both best shared. French, Spanish and local wines are joined by options from Armenia, Turkey and Lebanon, while cocktails hum with flavours of cardamom, Turkish figs and allspice. Even some desserts get a sumac dusting, such as brown butter kataifi with coconut and mango. You’ll want to order all of it; happily there’s no judgment here when it comes to boxing up leftovers.
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