Five years in, Agnes still crackles like the kitchen’s open fire, and if chefs Ben Williamson and Ryan Carlson are running low on ideas, it doesn’t show.. Some things are sacred: potato sourdough with smoked butter, a faultless wagyu sirloin and the exceptional wine service (the list is full of lesser-known drops). But the menu also sneaks in new thrills, such as peach-smoked oxheart tomatoes with Olasagasti anchovies on toasted sourdough, or a special of 12-hour smoked lamb collar with pickles, fresh herbs and fermented tomato water. The use of fire is always creative, whether basket-grilling calamari and cavolo nero over flame and finishing it with roasted yeast beurre blanc, or using a scorching-hot iron to toast meringue atop mango sorbet with smoked yoghurt cremeux. Few restaurants are as consistent, or as compelling, as this one. With two more venues on the radar, Idle and Golden Avenue, the Anyday group is red hot.
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