Named after the groundbreaking 1959 album Mingus Ah Um by American jazz musician Charles Mingus, the restaurant offshoot of hi-fi listening bar Astral Weeks is dark, loud, hot and cool all at the same time. The clubby 25-seat den with a crystal-clear sound system and plenty of urban brio is accessed via an unmarked door inside the mothership. The spirits, sake and wines on the drinks list are sharp and interesting; ditto engaged waitstaff who look after the restaurant’s equally hip guests. Chef Branden Scott enjoys surprising diners by combining ingredients in unexpected ways on the punchy menu. Pickled endive adds zip to miso-cured scallops, just as loosening red chermoula with lamb stock adds meaty heft to grilled squid. And why make a blue cheese sauce for steak when you can just put good Stilton on the plate? Benchmark sourdough and an eggy crème caramel, however, suggests he also respects the old-school.
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Tori Lill
