It’s not the shock of the new but the joy of the familiar at this compact Carlton terrace bistro. How else to explain a place where a cheeseburger, going artfully minimalist with an architectural spear of dill pickle, has become the breakout social media star, and an order of chicken liver pâté can create a domino effect around the room? Chef Alex Nishizawa knows how to make the classics sing (on that note, see the nanna-core cream puff at dessert), but his toolbox of modern tricks gets a run with tiger prawns in the buttery tang of fermented chilli sauce and the inspired triangulation of squacquerone cheese, zucchini and honey dressing. Hiding coyly behind a curtained doorway, Bistra’s whitewashed brick walls and looks-enhancing mood lighting provide a canvas for diners to choose their direction, as does the globe-straddling wine list, which is alive to the interest-versus-value nexus. Casual drop-in or big night out? You decide.
Price Guide
$$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair Access
Yes
Opening Hours
Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Wed-Mon
The Gourmet Traveller Team
Becca Crawford
