Handsome with a distinctly metropolitan edge, Bistro Livi appears at odds with its crafty arts precinct neighbour and the pub up the road. But enter its golden glow – where lights shine above tables like halos and downtempo jazz provides an understated audio backdrop – and it’s apparent this Murwillumbah beauty is right where it should be. Northern Rivers produce punctuates the free-wheeling menu, where Boon Luck Farm torch ginger amps up silky braised eggplant, and charred bullhorn peppers are mellowed by earthy-sweet pumpkin seed sauce. Iluka mud crab salad is a masterclass in restraint, accented by radish, preserved lemon and a crown of laser-chopped chives, as is the Moreton Bay bug in piquant curry butter, and a blush-pink and smoky char-grilled lamb chop. The wine list darts from a taut Jura to a ripping WA grenache while the floor team coasts with easy confidence. Livi sets a regional dining standard that’s rarely matched.
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