In the restaurant world, simplicity is one of the trickiest hurdles to clear. Carnation Canteen’s owner-chef Audrey Shaw, whose former life working for Kerstin Thompson Architects is apparent in the delightful, warm minimalism of the dining room, is impressively untroubled by the hurdle. The succinct, hand-written menu means it’s nimble, so Shaw’s Euro-leaning dishes – perhaps a Spanish chickpea salad teamed with jammy, late-season figs or a butterflied baby snapper cooked over charcoal and seasoned with salt and lemon – can change regularly to reflect the seasonal in real time. Sides like roasted Dutch cream potatoes or a precisely dressed leaf salad, and desserts – maybe a soft cheesecake with sweet, tangy rhubarb – emphasise that when it comes to flavour, all courses here are created equal. Add calm, generous service and a smart wine list that refreshes as frequently as the menu and you have a poster child for elevated simplicity.
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