From day one, Casa has operated as a house of no fixed address when it comes to cuisine. Chicken liver mousse toasts and debonair millefeuilles may trigger flashbacks to Paris, although prawn cocktail lettuce cups and an ace burger are more Chateau Marmont than Montmartre. Billowy focaccia, fridges overflowing with organically farmed vino, plus glorious pasta alla tonnarelli, juicy with jalapeño butter and crab, suggest this mid-century wine haven is cut from the same cloth as so many modern-day enoteche. But then you spy Paul Bentley’s forays into cocina Mexicana and understand, not for the first time, why his cooking commands a national following. Whether it’s lamb anointed with barbacoa spice or chef-menu exclusives, such as duck leg flautas and raw steak brightened with pickled cactus, the kitchen’s hit rate is impressive. The front-of-house team is equally reliable – dining trends come and go, but sincere, thoughtful service never goes out of fashion.
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