It’s no surprise that a restaurant named after a punk band does things differently, not least daring to open an intimate, night-time dining room in downtown Margaret River. Oysters luxuriate in honeydew and green grape juice. The fish-on-fish pleasures of fried leatherjacket cheeks sit atop a glossy pil-pil “caramel”. A maverick tasting menu opens with cured kangaroo paired with high-altitude Catalan grenache. Despite de’sendent’s renegade thinking, its foundations are solid. A sleek fit-out delivers on both form and function while dialled-in floor staff bring professionalism and humour to proceedings. One moment they’re detailing why steamed crab set adrift by sweetcorn consommé is so devastatingly good (spoiler: chef Evan Hayter has close connections with producers); the next, they’re talking you into trying a Fig Lebowski, their White Russian remake starring house-made fig-leaf liqueur. It’s one of many pleasing discoveries on a drinks list that values local winemakers and artisan sake equally.
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