Sit at the bar in this intriguing inner west diner and you might feel like you’re watching a private show between you and a flaming grill. The skewers – or “pops”, as they’re called here – keep coming, from savoury, smoky, chilli-cumin lamb to cubes of wagyu so marbled it’s like eating butter. Sit upstairs and the velvet carpets and candles make it more the sort of place you’d go on a date, lingering over platters of oysters spiked with finger lime, cured duck layered with slices of piel de sapo melon, or charred corn ribs doused in yoghurt butter and caramel. Both ways of experiencing Firepop feel like riding a new wave of Australian dining; chatty service, a diverse culinary palate – the north-east Chinese influence in the lamb, the coconut labne with the sourdough bread – and biodynamic wines. Don’t overlook the set menus; they’re generally half the price of some of the city’s big names.
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