Melbourne’s Cantonese institution turns 50 this year and remains as opulent as ever. Its multi-page menu, with elegant dim sum alongside esoteric delights from land and sea, can be overwhelming, so be sure to consult the impeccably polished waitstaff for advice on what’s good that day. Shimmering Paspaley pearl meat, tossed with garlic chive and asparagus, arrives in-shell, while a crisp lamb spring roll echoes a Sunday roast with gravy. Har gow and shumai dumplings are emoji-perfect, barbecue char siu pork is sweet and thrillingly tender. Peking duck is silver-served at the table, a playful illustration rendered charmingly in hoi sin on the plate. Even tofu shines, expertly sliced and paired with pumpkin purée. The crimson-carpeted dining room is an ’80s Hong Kong fever dream and it helps to be a politician or visiting oligarch to score a prime table. But the experience? World-class, yet singularly Melbourne. Here’s to another five decades.
Price Guide
$$$$
Bookings
Essential
Wheelchair Access
Yes
Opening Hours
Lunch Mon-Sat; Dinner daily
The Gourmet Traveller Team
