George Kailis’ magnum opus isn’t just a restaurant, it’s a statement. A statement that insists Perth’s most famous beach demands an equally distinguished dining destination. Enter this seaside manor where magnetic, extroverted waiters roam, the tables are double-dressed, and luxury ingredients star in sophisticated remakes of brasserie classics. Head chef James Cole Bowen’s vitello tonnato features supple poached veal, blinged up with pickled onion and anchovy mayo. Spaghetti smothered in clams, lardons, garlic and chilli is a nod to the American steakhouse, as is the tinkly jazz soundtrack. Baked-to-order madeleines, meanwhile, speak to a reverence for timeless desserts. Old-world glamour like this is never cheap – especially if you succumb to Nina Throsby’s heavyweight cellar, the Fort Knox-like liquor cabinet or white sturgeon caviar hash browns – but for those looking to celebrate, Gibney is where you dress up and spend up.
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