Junda Khoo’s Malaysian playground is dining dynamite. Who wouldn’t delight in silky “laksa bombs” – fat chicken and prawn dumplings infused and drenched with creamy soup? Or tender, sticky-sweet roast duck, dry-aged for 10 days and served with optional foie gras and delicate pancakes? Other dishes have become signatures, such as smoky char kway teow with handpicked mud crab, fragrant piles of nasi goreng studded with glistening prawns, or 12-hour braised beef ribs with Vegemite gravy. The drinks list is equally eclectic, with more than 100 bottles of wine and by-the-glass drops, vibrant house cocktails and classic beers. Add an elevated open-plan hawker-style room and well-versed staff and you can see why this Town Hall haunt is still red hot after five years. It’s little wonder Khoo opened another Ho Jiak concept – a three-level fun house offering everything from takeaway to fine dining – in Melbourne over winter. Next stop: world domination.
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