It’s no surprise that Con Christopoulos (City Wine Shop, Kirk’s, Bossa Nova Sushi) opened this Athenian-style diner with Stavros Konis ahead of a wave of Greek restaurants demonstrating the cuisine’s reach beyond souvlaki and dips. Being at the front of the pack is something of a signature move. Occupying the dressed table surrounds of Christopoulos’ luxe late-night bar Supper Club, Kafeneion has introduced many to the delights of crisp fried sweetbreads, warmed Santorini-style fava dip, or luscious orange fillo cake that’s worth its own pilgrimage. A series of slow-cooked, olive oil-forward dishes – perhaps green beans and potato, or sticky-soft beef cheek – are the soul-satisfying essence of comfort food. Add vibrant versions of fan favourites like horiatiki (Greek salad), a wine list that includes deftly made assyrtiko and malagousia, and service embracing Hellenic humour and bonhomie, and Kafeneion represents another great argument for handing Christopoulos the keys to the city.
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