Lagoon Dining, Melbourne: Restaurant review

Lygon Street’s reputation might still be associated with Italy but some players like the stylish Lagoon Dining are expanding its culinary repertoire. The menu is most obviously influenced by China – with dishes such as its deservedly cult favourite hot-and-sour shredded potato batons doused in Chinkiang vinegar and topped with pickled enoki, or superbly juicy charcoal-roasted char siu pork – but chef Keat Lee also references countries like Malaysia (a turmeric-powered chicken leg teamed with anchovy sambal) and Japan (expertly fried chicken with house-made tonkatsu sauce). It’s exciting, interesting cooking, striking an impeccable balance of punchy and refined with a fearless approach to fusion, as with the excellent beef tartare flavoured with laksa leaf, sambal vinaigrette and crème fraîche. Add excellent on-theme cocktails, a short, elegant wine list and a service style as comforting as the dining room’s serene fit-out and you have a welcome alternative to the street’s historical hegemony.

Price Guide

$$$

Bookings

Recommended

Wheelchair Access

Yes

Opening Hours

Lunch Fri; Dinner Tue-Sun

The Gourmet Traveller Team

Gourmet Traveller is Australia’s trusted authority on food, travel and luxury lifestyle, bringing the latest news and trends to life through quality journalism, enticing recipes and evocative photography. For more than 55 years, it has been inspiring and informing Australians with the best in cooking, dining, travelling and shopping. Our critics bring the expertise of years of critical eating, drinking and writing to the table. Plus, as the country’s leading title in the luxury sector, Gourmet Traveller works closely with Australia’s leaders in the travel and hospitality industries to give our readers exclusive access. The Gourmet Traveller legacy is one of trust, prestige and relevance.

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