This landmark building first opened as the Carousel Restaurant in 1963, and sits atop Red Hill like a retro spaceship. It reopened in November under new owners following a dazzling renovation by design firm ACME (Gimlet, Margaret), with Lunetta Trattoria serving more casual fare at ground level and a separate fine-dining offering upstairs. Here, executive chef Tristan Rebbettes oversees a polished, Italian-ish menu with many dishes cooked over flames in the open kitchen. An icy Martini served on a silver tray is an excellent start, followed by thick hunks of molasses-glazed sourdough with whipped Pepe Saya butter and a precise beef tartare lifted with ’nduja. Pasta is a standout – perhaps glossy spheres of ravioli plump with ricotta in fermented chilli tomato sauce – as is wood-roasted porchetta with crunchy crackling and black garlic gel. Then there’s the knockout view: sharp prisms framing the landmarks of Canberra below, like the Hollywood Hills meets Mad Men.
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