Chris Lucas is Melbourne’s restaurateur and Maison Bâtard is his Oscar-worthy masterpiece. The four-level flight of French fancy is a world of conspicuous consumption, where the perfect visit begins with a chartreuse-spiked Martini and fresh oysters on the rooftop terrace. Linger over lobster croquettes and jambon doughnuts or segue to the ground-floor dining room where smoky mirrors reflect a Parisian bacchanal of Oscietra caviar-daubed crab brioche fingers or hand-cut steak tartare bristling under a sea of snipped chives. Whichever way you approach the proteins from the Josper grill – chardonnay caper-sauced John Dory or a retro Tournedos Rossini steak, perhaps – the wine list from Loic Avril ballasts the menu with Old World appeal. Approaching Bâtard is a matter of discretion – including whether you kick on to the velvet-clad basement supper club – but to simply call it a French bistro is a disservice. It’s Melbourne’s new haute clubhouse, shimmering with indulgent possibilities.
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Alex Drewniak
