If a single dish defines German chef Fabian Lehmann’s multi-course tasting menu at this pitch-perfect winery restaurant, it’s the oyster pearl. Arriving at the table amid billows of dry ice, it’s made using oyster mousse, Champagne gel and glittering silver powder. The edible oyster-shaped shell (made of delicately fried batter) is handpainted and finished with oyster mayonnaise, caviar, karkalla and sea blight. It’s a stunner. Elsewhere, Scandinavia inspires bite-sized Danish-style doughnuts filled with raw cow’s-milk cheese mousse and crowned with sliced wagyu bresaola, while a lighter touch appears in tiny hiramasa kingfish tarts popping with sesame emulsion, apple gel and finely grated radish. The continuity between vineyard and kitchen continues in the dessert list, with the use of grapes and mead in sweet dishes. The setting overlooks the Maxwell family’s vineyards and their wines are championed alongside a small international list.
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