The first dilemma at Ronnie Di Stasio and Mallory Wall’s Carlton outpost? Whether to dine in the gallery-like interior rooms amid the pop grandeur of large-scale Reko Rennie paintings, or go alfresco in a pitch-perfect rendition of an Italian courtyard, complete with imported 17th-century stone fountain. Either way, the backdrop – turbo-charged by a meticulously outfitted, charmingly efficient service team – is ideally suited to a menu that covers Italy’s greatest hits. Expect fermented, puffy-crusted pizza topped with ingredients both simple and lobster-luxe, handmade pasta including the homely radiance of a “reborn bread” ravioli, thrilling vegetable dishes like wood-grilled zucchini with pecorino and mint, and the signature fior di latte gelato, salted, olive-oiled and served in a stemmed green glass. The presentation is as artful as the surroundings (the Martini arrives on a tray with extra olives sitting in crushed ice), making this a feast for the senses, inside or out.
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