Brothers Mork and Benn Ratanakosol closed their popular diner, Morks, in 2024, and have returned to the same leafy neighbourhood where their parents ran a Thai restaurant for almost 20 years. The new venture – a 22-seat wine bar tucked behind a discreet frosted façade – celebrates “third culture cooking”, when children grow up in a different culture from their parents. The short, ever-changing menu is grounded in their Thai heritage, with Chinese and Southeast Asian flavours and European influences. Killer snacks might include crisp roti with sour pork sausage reminiscent of a tostada, or an elegant monkfish, prawn and scallop cake in rich Panang curry sauce. The modern spins keep coming, from eggplant on whipped ricotta updating an Isaan larb, to mee goreng with shattery pork chicharon elevating the noodle staple. A fresh take on mango sticky rice is a frosty finale, the cold fruit contrasted with peanut brittle and white chocolate. It’s an eclectic, electric family affair.
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Ash St George, Pew Pew Studio
