You notice the first expletive as soon as you open the menu. Diners can choose a glass of wine that’s “not shit” or a cocktail that’s “nothing to fuck with”. Brothers Blayne and Chayse Bertoncello – the youthful chef and sommelier respectively – run this diminutive fine-diner in Melbourne’s south-east with plenty of cheek and charm. Fuelled by a substantial kitchen garden down the road, their ethos of sustainable, best-in-class produce and technical brilliance appears at every turn. First come snacks – a tangy tempura pickle, perhaps, or a crisp pastry shell stuffed with flathead mousse. Then a series of graphic plates spotlighting seasonal gems: variations of sweetly smooth Jerusalem artichoke, rich lamb ragù with razors of root veg, or fall-apart pork neck that cuts as soft as butter. A dessert of crème pâtissière made from sourdough offcuts is pure art. And the drinks? From house-made kombucha to hyper-local wines, it’s hit after hit.
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