When Lachlan Colwill and Sophie Pope came to Tasmania hoping to open a Japanese-inspired fine-diner, they did not expect it to be in the back of a luxury car showroom. That happy accident has become one of many delightful quirks of their performance-driven kaiseki experience, which maintains a state of reinvention thanks to twice-yearly trips to Japan. Serving just 10 diners a night at a stone bench kitted out with a sink, a steam oven and a hibachi grill, the duo’s seafood-driven offering follows a direct line between producer and plate. Thumb-sized school whiting arrive firm and sweet with flakes of river salt. Sake-steamed black lip abalone is made for dunking in liver and cream cheese. Tiger flathead, smoked over vine cuttings, is complemented by jellied fish skin. Each mouthful is deeply considered, yet restrained. Much to locals’ delight, take-home bento boxes are now part of Omotenashi’s repertoire.
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