Oscar’s in the Valley, Swan Valley: Restaurant review

Is Herne Hill the home of the West’s next big restaurant? An unlikely address in the Swan Valley only adds to the sense of wonder that comes with lunching at this airy dining room surrounded by vines, olive trees and farmland. Order à la carte if you really must, but structured tasting menus are the best (and best-value) way to understand chef Justin Hughes’ considered approach to both cooking and sourcing. Surprises unfold at every turn, from the deep savour of house-cured prosciutto cleverly paired with wedges of grilled apple, to upcycling fish trim into smoky, unctuous rillettes. Rootsy, CWA-esque thinking is everywhere: whole beasts from small farmers are dry-aged onsite, their fat repurposed to render potato fondant more golden and delicious than tubers have any right to be, and matey floor staff pour local wines and beers alongside elite whiskies from Limeburners, Oscar’s roommate and another homegrown success.

Price Guide

$$$

Bookings

Recommended

Wheelchair Access

Yes

Opening Hours

Lunch Wed-Sun; Dinner Sat

The Gourmet Traveller Team

Gourmet Traveller is Australia’s trusted authority on food, travel and luxury lifestyle, bringing the latest news and trends to life through quality journalism, enticing recipes and evocative photography. For more than 55 years, it has been inspiring and informing Australians with the best in cooking, dining, travelling and shopping. Our critics bring the expertise of years of critical eating, drinking and writing to the table. Plus, as the country’s leading title in the luxury sector, Gourmet Traveller works closely with Australia’s leaders in the travel and hospitality industries to give our readers exclusive access. The Gourmet Traveller legacy is one of trust, prestige and relevance.

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