Restaurant Reviews

REVIEW This is the local Italian that you wish was around the corner – buzzy, fast and fun. We’re here for the pizza. It’s good. Very good. Thin, blistered crust, classic Neapolitan style judiciously topped with quality ingredients. The Diavola, for example, eschews the standard sliced salami for splashes of hot ‘nduja floating on tomato […]

REVIEW Even if you don’t book a seaplane, or arrive by yacht, the trek needed to reach this secluded Hawkesbury River boatshed turned historic restaurant reaps unexpected rewards. Where else can one savour pitch-perfect entrées such as figs served with burrata and pea juice, or Moreton Bay bugs napped with lemon hollandaise, under the gaze […]

REVIEW The words “charcoal chicken, sesame yoghurt” don’t really scream izakaya, but this is Cho Cho San, that charcoal is binchotan and the chicken in question – flesh juicy, skin crackled – is rounded out with pickled ginger and splashes of soy. Sit at the concrete bar with a mix of inner-city types and locals, […]

REVIEW There are few more magical approaches to a restaurant in Australia than the short, sweet ride across the Hawkesbury to berth at this river-locked landmark. As the water laps and sucks at the stones beneath the louvred windows running the length of the long, airy room, diners poke and prod at the small arrangements […]

REVIEW Alpha is a modern sort of Greek restaurant, make no mistake, but the Hellenic references in the look (not least the formidable fresco-andcolumns touches) make it very clear which end of the Med you’re visiting. Though staff stumble a little, the greetings are warm and there’s cheer  when hot pita and taramasalata hit the […]

REVIEW Quirky Moga is the Japanese version of the neighbourhood bistro everyone wants to find at the end of their street. There’s a sushi conveyor in a wood-panelled backroom with posters of 1920s moga (modern girls), but the garden terrace, with paper lanterns and timber screens, is an even more congenial spot to raise a […]

REVIEW Pork cheek pressé, duck rillettes, duck ballotine and a chunky rustic pork terrine – all presented simply with buttery house brioche, croûtons, cornichons and fig chutney for an entrée. Add in a glass of Provençal rosé, say, or a bottle from Alsace-born chef Romain Bapst’s homeland (the French-leaning list fields a strong selection of […]

REVIEW Zanzibar might not possess a panoramic view of the relaxed coastal town of Merimbula, but diners feel the breezy vibe nonetheless. It could come courtesy of pristine local ingredients, many of them plucked from nearby waters, or simply via the charm of hostess Renée Loftus. On the plate, though, it’s more about big-city polish, […]

REVIEW There’s a touch of garden-shed chic about Tomah Gardens restaurant, but that’s half the charm of a rustic space that’s furnished with upcycled tables and chairs and a pot-bellied fireplace. It’s comfortable, which is just as well, because after the drive you’ll want to settle in and enjoy the view and a menu of […]

REVIEW There are admirable people who embrace farm-to-fork dining to reduce the emissions created by transporting foodstuffs. Chef Andy Crestani adopts farm-to-fork principles to ensure his dishes are fresher, more nutritious and infinitely more flavoursome. Conveniently, much of his produce comes from the Robert Stein vineyard estate on which the restaurant sits. Old World pigs […]

REVIEW Take a seat on the covered outdoor balcony or in the Eastern-inspired dining room and enjoy the cooling sea breeze, perhaps with a chilled glass of sake or a spice-friendly wine from a succinct, well-considered list. You may need a refreshing beverage or two, as Spice Bar lives up to its name. It specialises […]

REVIEW Don’t let the laid-back vibe of this coastal restaurant fool you. It delivers great food, a compelling wine list offering drops from Australia and beyond as well as outstanding service from switched-on, likeable staff. A table on the footpath captures sea breezes, while inside, the open kitchen and bearded bartenders shaking cocktails create buzz […]

REVIEW There’s lots going on at Saint Crispin. The interior is straightforward – the timber-floored room has dark tones, brass finishes and a glossy bar – but the kitchen works hard for its money. Its menu, by executive chef Scott Pickett, includes multiple-course options, plus “little bites” such as Moonlight Flat oysters or pork scratchings […]

Still packing the house after almost 20 years, it’s not so much longevity for which Il Bàcaro should be commended, writes Michael Harden, but more its unfailing class.

REVIEW Locally sourced goat, storied wines from a cellar that holds up to 30,000 bottles, and a kitchen plot bigger than most market gardens. This is the culinary toybox available to chef Robin Wickens. There can be few shorter distances from paddock to plate than at this upmarket country pub in Victoria’s pastoral Western District. […]

REVIEW With a graphic-design degree tucked up the sleeve of his chef’s whites, Julian Hills brings an artist’s sensibility to the kitchen, balancing flavours, texture and pops of colour. And thanks to a smart revamp, Paringa’s interiors now match that contemporary aesthetic. Rich timbers, a black leather banquette and charcoal carpet bring a fresh level […]

REVIEW Hotel restaurants must cater to all tastes and often the result is a menu that neither offends nor delights. The Argus is not such a restaurant, yet it offers the pluses of 1930s hotel dining – the grand entrance, the sense of occasion. Chef David Willcocks reboots expectations from the get-go with a raw […]

REVIEW In a town where reliable beachside eats are still thin on the sand, this bustling multi-tasker manages to do everything from breakfast, lunch and dinner to all-day coffee and wine. Like the airy yellow-splashed interior, the menu is fresh, fun and unashamedly Italian in spirit. Bowls of clams strewn with prosciutto lardons and garlic […]

REVIEW Chicken pâté sushi. It’s not exactly textbook Japanese cooking, doubly so when deep-fried and accented with spicy moro miso. But that’s precisely the kind of open-mindedness that defines Miki’s Open Kitchen, a dedicated – yet decidedly relaxed – tempura restaurant in the wine and surfie hamlet of Margaret River. Tempura parcels of nori-wrapped garfish […]

Monster has the requisite wow-factor but, more than that, it has charm and ambition matched only by its performance, writes Pat Nourse.

In his latest encore, Andrew McConnell slips smoothly from mod Asian to Parisian-style bistro, writes Michael Harden. Luxembourg, take a bow.

Potts Point newcomer Cho Cho San is no paint-by-numbers creation, but rather a free-form rendition of hip Nippon dining, writes Pat Nourse.

Fresh faces in the kitchen and on the restaurant floor give new life to classical bones at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, writes Pat Nourse.

The bookings system and menu themes may be novel, but the appeal at Prix Fixe, writes Michael Harden, is simply good cooking and great value.

The new Fish Face Dining in Double Bay marks a welcome sea change for marine maestro Steve Hodges and his able protégé, writes Pat Nourse.

George Calombaris’s latest Press Club incarnation is modern Greek meets Aussie kitsch – bold, playful and at times puzzling, but without doubt memorable, writes Michael Harden.

East meets West meets East in the inner north at Northern Light. But, writes Michael Harden, there’s more fun to be had in the simple pleasure of eating the dishes than decoding their origins.

On the banks of the Hawkesbury, Cottage Point Inn’s menu nudges the boat out in a quintessentially Australian setting, writes Pat Nourse.

Two former Jacques Reymond chefs have emerged from the kitchen of the acclaimed master to reboot and restyle the benchmark eatery with playfulness and panache, writes Michael Harden.

Judging by the decidedly different offerings at Moon Park and Danjee, Korean cuisine in Australia is having a moment, writes Pat Nourse.

After making his mark at the Royal Mail, chef Dan Hunter has taken over a new Victorian country classic, keeping the focus on the flavour of the region, writes Michael Harden.

Maurice Terzini’s new Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta celebrates pork, the pie, and all things Italian in singular Bondi style, writes Pat Nourse.

With promising hospitality credentials, new riffs on classic Chinese and a name immortalised in song, Lee Ho Fook is set to be a howling success, writes Michael Harden.

Marking 25 years on the Sydney fine-dining scene, the latest incarnation of Neil Perry’s Rockpool is set to be this year’s Big Deal Restaurant, writes Pat Nourse.

Channelling the energy and inventive spirit of San Sebastián’s pintxo bars, Bar Nacional is a welcome culinary light in Docklands, writes Michael Harden.

A festival of great ideas is executed really well at Sagra, East Sydney’s latest Italian. It’s a gem, and the price is right, too, writes Pat Nourse.

Boisterous flavours and an uninhibited menu underpinned by an easy charm lend virtue to Melbourne’s refashioned Pope Joan, writes Michael Harden.

Nomad is an assured début for a young chef and there’s more than a fair suck of the local sauce bottle in the wine department, writes Pat Nourse.

Where there’s smoke, you’re likely to find food fired to charry greatness, the sort of cooking that’s so hot right now, and they get it so right at Ester, writes Pat Nourse.

An assured and talented team matches wine-friendly food to a cellar of great booze and a slick space at new South Melbourne bistro Bellota, writes Michael Harden.

Ambitious, sincere, powerful – the food Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac create at their joint venture, Saint Crispin, is a work of heart, writes Michael Harden.

The only problem with Café Paci is that it’s here for a good time, not a long time, writes Pat Nourse. Get set to taste some of the most original food in town.

REVIEW Once part of a store for Sydney’s dapper gentlemen, this dark room has a men’s club feel, only with rather more buzz and relaxed but efficient service. The wine list is easy to navigate and offers a mix of local and international drops, with plenty of finds under $100 and lots to like by […]

REVIEW Make no mistake: there’s nothing timid about The Town Mouse. Polished terrazzo floors and glossy black tiles keep the noise levels lively, and switched-on waitstaff are just as passionate about a glass of booze-free French grape juice as they are the most obscure natural wine on their menu. They’re right to be so enthusiastic […]

REVIEW With its high-wire act of empty birdcages, China Lane looks at first like the setting for an arthouse film. Inside, the dreamscape continues: is this 1930s Shanghai peopled with coolly confidentMad Menextras? The suited-up lunchers are here for the smart Asian eats and great-value drinks. Duck pancakes, pork sang choi bau, and salt and […]

REVIEW Look past the red neon signage, designer interiors and booming rock music and you’ll see that George Calombaris’s rollickingly popular mid-range offering is really a boisterous Greek taverna at heart. Don’t go expecting hushed intimacy (even when you think it’ll be quiet, the place is still loud and full), but do expect zippy service […]

REVIEW This buzzy bolthole in downtown Newie is a real delight: the vibe is relaxed and the food by talented Chris Thornton is top-notch. Soft pillowy gnocchi is glammed up with sweet shredded Fraser Isle spanner crab, chopped asparagus and fried onions adding crunch and texture. Scope out the fish of the day on the […]

REVIEW Gladioli’s tasting menu peaks with slow-cooked beef from the barbecue, glazed in Granny Smith apple juice and teamed with a rich mix of Japanese mustard, turnips and native succulents, all expertly seasoned. It’s a dish that suits the comfortable, elegant dining room while also reflecting regional produce that chef Matt Dempsey has sourced, hand-picked […]

With his latest venture, Valentino, an expression of his regional roots, chef Riccardo Momesso finds himself right on-trend, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Ten years on, this pioneering gem punches well above its nominal café status – even at breakfast, when your omelette might arrive loaded with local spanner crab. As the sun sets, proceedings ratchet up further. Uplights accentuate the narrow, bistro-style room with its raw brickwork and bentwood chairs. A clipped but clever wine list […]

REVIEW This venue has closed. Yes, this is the place. Co-op Dining’s location under a block of serviced apartments is the first of many surprises. Others are revealed at various stages of your dégustation, a shining example of the magic that happens when thoughtful producers and chefs join forces. Snacks arrive at a  rapid-fire pace. […]

REVIEW Bistro Guillaume’s commitment to Gallic tradition ensures the neo-bistro remains one of Crown  Perth’s safer bets. While the prices might be more fine-diner than neighbourhood bistro, all the French comfort classics are present and accounted for: from confit duck leg with peas, speck and spring onions to a rich, benchmark-setting French onion soup with […]

REVIEW Originally it was all about polenta, but Andre’s is now as versatile as any Italian-accented kitchen, left in capable hands while its founder focuses on his new pasta and dessert business. Try the carpaccio, a staple favourite, or the consigli – hand-scrawled recommendations on the blackboard. In moody, muted lighting, with the vibe like […]

Oscillate Wildly’s vibrant food and pace are a winning antidote to dégustation fatigue, writes Pat Nourse, and its tasting menu offers exceptional value to boot.

Originality and style are what you’ll find at Melbourne newcomer The Town Mouse, where intelligent, ingredient-focused food meets good-humoured hospitality, writes Michael Harden.

Seven years at Four in Hand have done little to stem the creative juices of head chef Colin Fassnidge – in fact, writes Pat Nourse, his evolving style continually renders excellence.

With Italian fare as its point of reference, Osteria di Russo & Russo aims high, shoots to thrill and admirably blazes a fresh trail for its neighbourhood, writes Pat Nourse.

Grossi Florentino’s place in Melbourne’s cultural and culinary life has been reinscribed, writes Michael Harden, thanks to a sensitive overhaul.

The talented team from Coda is turning out serious Indian street food in a smart laneway dining room with a welcome mix of seriously good drinks and service to match, writes Michael Harden.

The list of niche wines at 10 William Street is among the best around. And now chef Dan Pepperell’s amped-up Italian menu is as deeply felt as the vinous offering, writes Pat Nourse.

Rosa Mitchell’s honest take on Sicilian food has always packed an emotional punch, and now that she’s back cooking in the CBD, Michael Harden finds himself overcome.

Kings Cross landmark The Bourbon has been reborn in a more sophisticated form that conjures the spirit of New Orleans with a riff on the city’s cuisine, writes Pat Nourse.

For Andrew McConnell, the only way is up, judging by the fun food at his latest venture. Michael Harden ascends to the new wine bar above its famed sibling, Cumulus Inc.

A restaurant for the masses? No. The same idiosyncrasy that defined the Bentley – with a touch of marketing savvy – is key to the success of wine bar Monopole, writes Pat Nourse.

Under new chef David Lovett, Uccello is serving faithful renditions of Italian cuisine against a poolside setting that brings something of a bunga bunga vibe, writes Pat Nourse.

There’s an intuitive understanding about the theatre of dining at Café Di Stasio that sets the tone for its elegant new bar, writes Michael Harden.

If you go down to The Woods today, you’ll find the Four Seasons has recaptured its culinary mojo thanks to an infusion of new blood from a surprising quarter, writes Pat Nourse.

Much about Rosetta, Neil Perry’s first Italian foray, is writ large – lavish décor, prices – but it’s the attention to detail and authenticity that make it a winner, writes Michael Harden.

The reincarnation of Rose Bay’s Pier restaurant as The Sailors Club has brought buzz to the space, along with good casual eats and sunny designer accents, writes Pat Nourse.

David’s, the comeback kid of Melbourne dining, has regained its mojo with a fresh focus on its Shanghainese roots, writes Michael Harden.

With a big menu, big venue and big-name development, the expectations for Robert Marchetti at Gowings Bar & Grill, writes Pat Nourse, aren’t small.

Melbourne, long perceived as both food destination and arts hub, now has a theatre restaurant worth an encore. Trocadero, take a bow.

The latest venture from the Hemmes family is their most ambitious yet, writes Pat Nourse, a grand 240-seater that’s a love letter to the great Cantonese restaurants of Hong Kong.

Simon Denton and Con Christopoulos have long shaped the way Melbourne eats and drinks. In their latest ventures, things get personal.

REVIEW Chickens and children are as much part of the experience as the food here: there’s a playground for kids, while cows, pigs and chooks are star attractions at The Farm, the restaurant’s grand agricultural, ecological and educational project. Embraced by locals and mobbed by visitors, things can get chaotic, but the floor staff keep […]

REVIEW Sokyo is different things to different diners. The name fuses Sydney and Tokyo, and for the most part it’s a blazing Harajuku swirl of boisterous flavours. You might start with the kingfish ceviche topped with slivers of potato and a hint of chilli, or be tempted by the tuna on a hot, crunchy rice […]

REVIEW There’s bustle without the hustle, bite without the skite – Red Lantern manages to be streetwise and sophisticated at the same time. Hoist a Hoi An Julep while contemplating the extensive French and Australian wine list and the Indochine idyll, long marble tables, padded banquettes and Vietnamese bric-à-brac. The entrées are where the true […]

REVIEW The name translates as “people” and Popolo is a crowd-pleasing affair. Adoring locals, faithful families and the Zegna set all converge here for its exceptional southern Italian food. The pop in Popolo comes courtesy of Naomi Lowry; her cooking is by turns sophisticated, homespun and transporting. Pasta is a highlight, not least malloreddus with […]

REVIEW We’d call it a quiet achiever if the music wasn’t rocking quite so hard. Izakaya Fujiyama is one of Sydney’s top destinations for Japanese snacks and possibly its best for sake. There’s a world of sake on offer and most of the waitstaff can follow even the vaguest instruction (“I want something to cool […]

REVIEW Named after the gardens it graces, this restaurant has a Hamptons-meets-the-Highlands look that resembles a busy conservatory. Soumak rugs and the open kitchen framed by jars of preserved vegetable jars set the curated-homely tone for Matt Moran’s tribute to garden-to-plate dining. Yes, you’ll see  lamb from the Moran family farm, plus a seasonal map […]

REVIEW Chat Thai is at a location near you. Some take bookings, some don’t. The service is efficient, and attentive. The menus are big and embrace many regions, all done well, while the food is fresh and fast. Ordering the pad Thai here is no cop-out: rich, balanced and satisfying, it’s the go-to noodle dish. […]

REVIEW It’s such a pleasure to wander through the unassuming downstairs café to discover this wonderful restaurant. The room is similarly low-key and the service understated, placing the focus firmly on the food. Chefs Karl and Katrina Kanetani, whose résumés include Est, Quay and Tetsuya’s, present an impressive seven-course dégustation that draws heavily on local […]

REVIEW This is, hands down, the best place to break bread in Newcastle. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the restaurant’s unassuming shopfront, but Subo is a gem. And the bread you’re breaking is local Baked Uprising sourdough with butter, caramelised garlic and chive salt. It’s so good you’ll want seconds, but hey, there’s […]

REVIEW The heritage building is key to Circa’s charm, and its tiny lounge is the place to sit and have dessert as you contemplate history – apple pie ice-cream with granola-style toffee crumb, say, with a Hunter Valley sticky to draw out the apple flavour. The food at Circa is diligently sourced from its kitchen […]

REVIEW Chef Douglas Elder’s penchant for gels, crumbs and creative plating will impress out-of-towners seeking an affordable taste of fine dining in an approachable, family-friendly space. And at $96 for three courses and matching wines, it really is affordable. Lightly battered quail with rich terrine, yuzu mayonnaise, tangy apple kimchi and slaw is an upmarket […]

REVIEW Melbourne has a thing for comfortable Italian, and this self-assured laneway trattoria knows how to deliver the staples. Butter comes in foil, pasta is handmade and the Collins Street suits soak it all up like a wedge of ciabatta in a pool of Nap sauce. Evenings draw a diverse crowd – it’s also the […]

REVIEW Overlooking the tree-lined Fawkner Park, Bistro Gitan occupies a particularly blessed quadrant of South Yarra where nothing, it seems, could go wrong. Here, little does. The pearls-and-polo set comfortably take to their bentwood chairs and glasses of Perrier-Jouët from the French-accented wine list before entrusting themselves to the Reymond family’s famed hospitality, albeit in […]

REVIEW It’s within cooee of Queen Street Mall, but this laneway bolthole feels coolly out of step with it. Moodily lit with an industrial-chic interior featuring brick, leather hides and brass, there are nooks aplenty to dally in, including a quirky courtyard behind. Even the wine list is character-filled – a “reserve, vintage and obscure” […]

REVIEW If you’re not averse to ants with your salmon or roasted mealworm clinging to stir-fried water spinach, you’ll get plenty of love at Public: big flavours, adventurous pairings and seriously good cooking are top of the menu. An emu tartare with cured egg yolk, served atop lavosh, stands out for its unique taste and […]

REVIEW Double-dressed tables. Fussy compositions on big plates. A chef that loves playing with guests’ food: team Petite Mort evidently missed – or ignored – the memo about contemporary restaurant trends. But for those unmoved by the zeitgeist (no bookings, communal tables, venues that lean more bar than dining room), this bare-brick diner in leafy […]

REVIEW Diners and drinkers are in confident hands at this buzzy wine bar and bistro. The wood-fired grill keeps regulars happy, offal lovers are cheered by the menu, and the wine list is ever evolving, with sherries currently in favour. Downstairs is all high tables and bar stools, timber walls and industrial heritage. Upstairs has […]

With the opening of Red Lantern on Riley from co-owners Luke Nguyen and Mark Jensen, Sydney’s modern Vietnamese dining scene just got a whole lot brighter, writes Pat Nourse.

Old-school fine dining of the truffle-shaving-at-the-table variety may be making a comeback if Albert Park’s reinvigorated The Point is anything to go by, writes Michael Harden.

Sydney’s hottest new diner, Popolo, in Rushcutters Bay, is Italian food by and for the people – and the people are loving it, writes Pat Nourse.

Restaurateur Paul Mathis is back, and his latest Japanese venture is the real deal, albeit one that’s as much Melbourne as it is Tokyo. Michael Harden visits Akachochin.

At the Estelle, two chefs with disparate talents defy expectations of boho Northcote to deliver a dégustation that’s skilful, generous and unpretentious, writes Michael Harden.

Colin Fassnidge, the poet of pork, is one of the most interesting talents cooking in Sydney today, writes Pat Nourse, who visits 4Fourteen and asks: is that a slice of snout?

The Fish Shop is about seafood made fun and accessible via a mash-up of Aussie milk-bar and British chippy tropes, with a dash of Americana to season it, writes Pat Nourse.

Forget the intercity rivalry, writes Michael Harden. In Pei Modern, Sydney chef Mark Best has brought something unique and original to Melbourne’s buzzing food scene.

It’s in Stanmore. It’s tiny. It’s dégustation-only. It’s Sixpenny, the most ambitious restaurant to have opened in Sydney this year. Pat Nourse recommends adding it to your must-eat list.