Restaurant Reviews

Michael Harden welcomes the long-awaited return of MoMo to Melbourne’s dining scene, and indulges in a feast fit for a sultan.

With its Art Deco glory and soaring atrium, Rockpool Bar & Grill is probably the grandest restaurant Sydney has ever seen. It’s a steakhouse, writes Pat Nourse, but not as we know it.

With accomplished food from chef Jonathan Barthelmess and views to spare, it’s clear: Coast may be the finest modern Italian dining experience in the city, reports Pat Nourse.

Andrew McConnell shows he’s still plugged into the zeitgeist with the opening of his latest venture, Cutler & Co. It’s smart, sexy and seriously good, reports a smitten Michael Harden.

Far-flung ingredients and a modern sensibility come together at The Commoner, a uniquely “modern British” outpost that feels as homely as it is cosmopolitan, writes Michael Harden.

Spice Temple’s foray into new Chinese territory presents food fit for the Chairman, writes Pat Nourse.

George Calombaris gives classic taverna dining a baby-boomer twist that’s confident, exciting and rekindles diners’ memories of their Grecian adventures, says John Lethlean.

Spice I Am’s new sibling is a chip off the old block, with some welcome additions, Pat Nourse discovers.

Tendons, kneecaps and skewered thighs keep Pat Nourse going back for more at Azuma Regent.

Quixotic, exotic and yet strangely familiar, Gigibaba has emerged as a diamond in the rough in one of Melbourne’s most unlikely inner-city locations, reveals John Lethlean.

The menu at Etch delivers the oomph and finesse we’ve come to expect from the team at Bécasse, says Pat Nourse, plus a little intrigue. And the soup is a must.

Paul Wilson has made his mark at The Botanical and now brings the same magic to Half Moon in Brighton, a reborn pub where seafood rules, writes John Lethlean.

Stop by The Beresford for an expertly mixed cocktail – or two – and classic Italian fare, writes Pat Nourse.

When struck with a relentless craving for duck, John Lethlean heads to China Tea House. This Chapel Street newcomer is surprisingly impressive, and its Peking duck excellent.

Añada has a winning way with food and wine, not to mention its warm welcome, says John Lethlean, and much of it has to do with its predilection for specialty produce.

Tucked away from the central spectacle of Sydney’s Ivy is the Parisian-chic Ash Street Cellar. It’s the perfect place to enjoy the wilderness of the city at a safe remove, says Pat Nourse.

REVIEW No, Google Maps is right: this venue really does share an address with an office/apartment block near the picturesque Kwinana Freeway. While the location (and irksome traffic noise) isn’t ideal, team Red Cabbage work hard to put guests at ease. The hushed, low-lit room chimes with the restaurant’s fine-dining aspirations, but swatches of Fornasetti […]

REVIEW On the top floor of the historic Strand Arcade, this upmarket Italian eatery reads like a glossy boardroom: long tables, suits, ties and handshakes. The food offering is serious business, too. Parmesan is grated at the table by waiters wearing ties, and if you order more than one, ahem, $42 plates of pasta, they’ll […]

REVIEW A Tavola, “to the table”, is the call to eat in Italian homes, and the table in this instance is the marble communal number that dominates the front dining room at this local favourite, basking in the glow of copper lights and the simpatico welcome of the Italian staff. Home-style cooking is the touchstone, […]

REVIEW Calling Smolt a safe pair of hands is underplaying it. Sure, it has savvy staff, a good-looking room and a kitchen that loves a Mediterranean bistro classic, but this all-day diner is more than just a safe bet. Chef Joseph Koops starts with top-notch local produce, on show in an excellent saffron lumache pasta […]

Every cloud has one, so the saying goes, but Andrew McConnell’s latest venture, Cumulus Inc., seems to have more than its fair share. John Lethlean takes a trip to seventh heaven.

REVIEW In an age where line-ups and street cred can too often rule Melbourne’s food scene, The Grand can seem almost retro. All the nostalgic hallmarks of proper dining are there: comfortable chairs, linen-clad tables, carpeted floors and the rare treat of floor staff who really know how to treat a guest. Though the cosy, […]

Hiding in plain sight on Crown Street, the crack team at Marque are turning out some of the country’s finest food. With a minor facelift, the restaurant sparkles anew, says Pat Nourse.

Café Sopra, at Waterloo’s Fratelli Fresh, has quietly but surely become a Sydney dining institution, and the new Potts Point branch, writes Pat Nourse, continues the tradition.

Roberto Scheriani hits the big time with Melbourne’s power dining set in the CBD, reports John Lethlean.

Lotus’s reputation for attracting the young and fun crowd remains intact with rising star chef Dan Hong’s appointment to the Potts Point bar and bistro, writes Pat Nourse.

Guillaume Brahimi and his team have made their mark at Melbourne’s Crown, reports John Lethlean.

The Burlington at Crows Nest is a boon for North Shore diners who no longer have to cross the bridge to enjoy Matt Kemp’s European brasserie-style dining, writes Pat Nourse.

It’s Middle Eastern, but not as you know it. Maha merges a slick, masculine interior with culinary authenticity for a captivating experience. John Lethlean can’t wait to return.

Perched at the top of Sydney’s elegant Strand Arcade, Pendolino swings between an olive-oil emporium and an impressive Italian restaurant, writes Pat Nourse.

A weekends-only trattoria has put the Victorian country town of Yarck on the culinary map.

The city’s beautiful people are rushing to experience the dazzling new hotel, bar and restaurant complex that’s home to Mad Cow and Teppanyaki.

Melbourne’s Chinatown has a new designer kid on the block. Seamstress has the funked-up Asian food and cool cocktail scene all stitched up.

Don’t be fooled when you meet chef Adam Humphrey at Arras – he may have a thick Yorkshire accent but you won’t find any stodgy stews here.

The reopening of Berowra Waters Inn under the watch of Dietmar Sawyere has resurrected the pleasures of fine dining in a sublime setting.

The Royal Mail Hotel could well be Australia’s most exciting regional restaurant. Book a room, it’s well worth the trip.

The Spanish are passionate about their food, wine and soccer. Head to this North Shore tapas bar for a sample of the first two – and to chat about the third.

It’s not for everyone, but Ray Capaldi’s new-wave molecular gastronomy at Fenix is brave, inspired and often brilliant. Go with an open mind and prepare to be awed.

Hako’s slick new inner-city space has taken the this unassuming Japanese fave from hidden gem to cult-dining status.

Rambutan is a welcome addition to Sydney’s flowering Thai food scene. It’s southern spice with flair and flavour.

REVIEW Residents of the what’s known locally as the People’s Republic of Ainslie don’t take kindly to regime change. Fortunately Pulp Kitchen’s new owner Gus Armstrong maintains bistro doctrine, keeping classic steak frites with bearnaise and a lemon tart with perfectly pitched acidity and exceptional pastry on the menu. Chef Josh Lundy pushes Pulp beyond […]

REVIEW For the already impressive Ten Minutes by Tractor, 2017 was a year of deep investment – and exquisite return. The decade-old dining room, reopened in April in sleek, urbane style: a vision in Japanese marble and heather-grey velvet. The upgrade is everywhere, from service through to Zalto glassware that does justice to the 88-page, […]

REVIEW At Mildura’s Grand Hotel, there’s no shortage of dining options (café, grill, pizza), but nearly 30 years on, there’s still nothing in this Victorian town to match the appeal and rustic sophistication of Stefano’s. In a cellar lined with clothed tables and classical music, Stefano de Pieri marries Mildura produce with Italian brio to […]

REVIEW If you’re not up for trawling the length and breadth of the Yarra Valley in search of its many vinous and culinary gems, Healesville’s Edwardian-era hotel is a good Plan B. Built in 1910, this exceptionally hospitable pub has long paid homage to the valley’s brilliant wine and produce in ways that are anything […]

REVIEW Look around you in the middle of a busy service at Matteo’s and you’d swear you were in a smart Italian restaurant. It sounds Italian, from the name of the place (a Melbourne dining landmark for more than 20 years) to the group of well-dressed Carlton signori enjoying a bottle of Chianti from the […]

REVIEW Longrain still has that “treasure hidden in plain sight” feel, as fresh as the spicy scent that hits you walking through the door. An expansive bar, open kitchen and communal tables add to the convivial atmosphere, and the army of fleet-footed waitstaff delivers slick, attentive service. The menu is a vibrant showcase of South […]

REVIEW Kenzan has deservedly been on every “where to eat good Japanese food in Melbourne” list for decades now. Seats at the sushi bar are scarce because the quality of the seafood and the consistency of the knife skills on display have earned it a fiercely committed following. The dining room with its timber furniture […]

REVIEW Il Bàcaro transports you from the bustle of the Melbourne CBD into a pocket of low-lit intimacy where clean-cut wood and marble surfaces display an array of fine wines, chic thirtysomethings whisper to each other in darkened corners, and skilled waitstaff patrol the room offering excellent old-school service. Classic Italian dishes are given new […]

REVIEW Like the Italian porn-star-turned-politician it was named after 24 years ago, Cicciolina has grown from saucy to stalwart without sacrificing its bohemian side. The wood panelling is worn, the walls adorned with nudes, the loos off the car park. But there’s appealing chemistry driven by grown-up service and a chef who has been here […]

REVIEW Shannon Bennett’s Bistro Vue is like a film set. The “stonewashed” walls are plaster, the timber beams are faux, the lighting a touch too bright, but it’s a warm fantasy. The accordion player is genuine, as is his commitment to “La Vie En Rose” each service. While the theatrics are good fun, they’re held […]

REVIEW Courgette is a nice break from the noisy, bustling style of many restaurants. The clientele is mainly business guests, there’s plush coffee-toned carpet instead of typically unforgiving industrial concrete surfaces and there’s barely any Instagramming going on despite James Mussillon’s classic French technique creating plenty of clickbait. Bug tails are added to seared scallops […]

REVIEW Sails is quintessential Noosa beachfront dining, with an exclusive position, killer view, staggering wine listand waitstaff whose service style is almost as sunny as the weather. The menu is aptly seafood-focused, with smart yet simple dishes like crisp bite-sized tostaditas laden with Mooloolaba tuna, avocado, lime and a fresh green tomato relish. If your […]

REVIEW With its warm service, posh kids’ menu and contemporary interior, it’s no wonder this restaurant is a favourite for multigenerational celebrations. Owner-chef Daran Glasgow’s seasonal fare frequently dips into the surrounding coastal waters to propose something new, such as whiting fillets coated with flavoursome parmesan, a novel take on fish and chips. Char-grilled king […]

REVIEW Me Wah is where Hobart goes when it wants a fine night out. A place where diners can wallow in the luxury of noise-silencing carpet and a white linen-clad table, where ladies are given a seat for their handbags and gents the wine list. Yes, we’re in the rarified world of high-end Cantonese  food, […]

REVIEW Done exploring the Museum of Old and New Art’s subterranean treasures? Head to The Source – its glass-walled dining room features impressive views over the Derwent River and its chef Vince Trim takes inspiration from Tasmanian produce. He arranges an impressive collection of local ingredients in interesting combinations that deftly stop short of complicated. […]

REVIEW Lebrina has been doing its Old-World French/Italian-inspired thing for more than 20 years. And while every city’s got a place where the linen is pressed, the service formal and slightly aloof, the wine list leans classic and glazes burnish meals more often seen in an Evelyn Waugh novel than a new-millennium menu, there’s a […]

REVIEW The water wheel still slowly turns, but the appeal of this 1860s Adelaide Hills landmark goes beyond its old flour mill. Seppeltsfield Winery’s Warren Randall bought the property from Petaluma winery in 2015, reinvented the venue’s dining options and, in 2017, the space itself – renovations include a deck and glass-walled top level. Chef […]

REVIEW Tranquil and relaxed, Jolleys Boathouse takes its cues from the Torrens River at its doorstep. Beneath lofty white beams, diners watch hopeful anglers and earnest joggers as the day’s final rays dapple the water. Polite, unhurried staff present menus highlighting South Australian wines, beers and spirits, plus the best of the state’s produce – […]

REVIEW This style of dining is becoming a rarity in an age when share plates and bistronomy are de rigueur. Restaurant Two has stood the test of time for 17 years, remaining quietly committed to fine dining in contemporary surrounds, devoid of pomp and ceremony. Service has finesse without being finicky, and menus skip trends […]

REVIEW There’s something effortlessly charming about Adelaide’s oldest Italian dame. Waiters are so well versed and experienced – you’ll have a cool glass of vernaccia in one hand and grissini in the other before you’ve even begun to browse the large menu. There’s professional ease here, but also the potential for real fun, despite starched […]

REVIEW Simonn Hawke expresses the spirit and essence of her dishes rather than engaging in food fashion. Hers is food with cultural cred – there’s Italian passion in the brio and boldness of flavours, and French precision in the intensity of reductions and the intricate presentation. Regulars ponder what they’ll have after the exquisite twice-baked […]

REVIEW You’re guaranteed to pause at least once during your meal to identify the instrumental song being piped through the restaurant. (It was Clint Mansell’s “Requiem for a Dream” that caught us.) But there will be little confusion over the quality of Peter Sheppard’s food. This fine-dining, French-leaning restaurant is Wollongong’s most awarded, and it’s […]

REVIEW There are the restaurants in Australia that replicate ideas of what things were like in Italy, and then there are restaurants that feel like they might have sprung new from the ground in Rome or Milan today. Small of size but big on verve and casually hip to its core, Vini is of the […]

REVIEW As with every good marathon, preparation is key. Sushi E has a phone book of a menu that rewards homework. Even then, it pays to seek advice from the glamazons who attend this white marble jewel box, tucked behind the Hemmesphere cocktail lounge. Order a Windsor Knot and watch the four chefs do amazing […]

REVIEW Fratelli Fresh has come a long way since the Danks Street warehouse, now defunct, and the first Café Sopra on the top floor. There are now multiple locations, all serving authentic Italian fare: fresh ingredients cooked well from primi to dolci. Salads have serious game. Burrata, roasted pumpkin, spinach and pistachio displays a range […]

REVIEW At Prime, the cavernous steakhouse set within the GPO, things are done on a grand scale. As you step through the colossal arched entrance and follow the red carpet to your linen-draped table, it’s clear size is the key player here (the height of the menu is just the start) and prices follow suit. […]

REVIEW Suburban standout Cinco keeps its loyal clientele returning for more by offering generous portions and familiar-sounding dishes, albeit often with an adventurous twist. A deftly balanced entrée of prawn gnocchi with brown butter and goat’s curd arrives studded with raisins, adding an unexpected yet welcome sweetness. Pork belly braised in master stock shares a […]

REVIEW Here’s a spot for sun-drenched lunches fuelled by white-peach Bellinis and bright antipasti. The glow of Otto’s egg lamps has long drawn Sydney’s glitterati, who flock here for the cashed-up marina vibe, snappy service and sensuous riffs on traditional Italian fare. There’s polish in Richard Ptacnik’s pasta offerings, as in twists of strozzapreti with […]

REVIEW Double-clothed tables. Framed Matisse drawings. Thirty-five-dollar glasses of Bordeaux. Fellow diners who begin their sentences with the phrase, “So I get a call from the ambassador…” Yes, Guillaume is every inchthatrestaurant. The sommelier will have a European accent, the other staff will be quietly competent if not exactly engaging. The same could be said […]

REVIEW If we’re brutally honest, Glebe Point Road’s status as an eat street rests more on the quantity of its outlets rather than the quality. But Glebe Point Diner stands tall among the handful of exceptions to the rule, a bistro with the sort of local charm that has near-universal appeal. The mild eccentricity of […]

REVIEW The cavernous glass and steel-framed space bustles with business folk hepped up on one of Sydney’s most voluminous and finely wrought wine lists, dipping into the broad menu that skitters from raw to grilled while touching on tapas and leaning heavily on seafood. For an entrée, try grilled sardines, crunchy and lightly charred, finished […]

REVIEW One could assume that a restaurant so well located might rely on its good looks to get by. Not so. The views of Rose Bay may be seductive, but the food is equally commanding. Seafood is the star, as an entrée of seared scallops with a tiger prawn and snapper brandade, leek purée, seaweed […]

REVIEW Bodega in one word? Swingin’. The tunes. The skirts. The tapas and share plates making their way from the open kitchen, carried by some of the friendliest waitstaff in town. The energy is infectious. Slide into a baby-blue leather banquette and peruse the strictly Latin wine list while well-coiffed chefs build queso fresco towers […]

REVIEW There are plenty of Japanese restaurants in Sydney, but not many truly evoke the feeling of dining in Tokyo in the same way as Azuma. The corporate location, sophisticated, dark-tinted interior, Japanese artworks on the walls and perhaps Sydney’s best tempura more than set the scene. There’s a tasting omakase menu, but it’s not […]

This is an inner-city dining room with a difference; a part-time restaurant with full-bore home cooking. Pull up a stool at Journal Canteen.

Look no further. The Holy Grail – a genuinely good plate of homemade fresh pasta – is here in this simple eating house.

The team at Catalina proves that there’s much more to this Sydney dining icon than its harbourside location.

Neil Perry’s foray into the Melbourne market with Rockpool Bar & Grill is a powerhouse.

Two blokes with an impressive pedigree open a Glebe diner that’s a bastion of simple and honest regional cooking.

In an area short on fine dining, a defiant restaurant is bucking the trend. Soulful cooking, chic room... Is Delizia the best in the west?

After stellar stints in various Sydney venues, chef Darrell Felstead brings his confident, assured style to his own venture, Foveaux Restaurant & Bar, in Surry Hills. It deserves your attention.

There’s a timeless appeal in the honest and generous food of France-Soir, the unpretentious, bustling French bistro which has become a bona fide Melbourne institution.

If three stars weren’t enough, Peter Gilmore’s food at Quay has risen higher yet with a new degustation menu – and the views still rock.

Teage Ezard’s funky and fun Asian spin-off, Gingerboy, goes beyond the usual wok-mongers – it’s Thai, Malaysian and Chinese street fare with a style all its own.

George Calombaris’ The Press Club is not only turning heads, his modern Greek cuisine is turning upside down what we know about feta, olives, oregano and all other things Hellenic, too.

With its modern Turkish flavours and glam harbourside setting, the Sydney sibling of Canberra’s Ottoman Cuisine shows potential.

A St Kilda stalwart re-opens with a fresh face and a nostalgic ‘Continental’ menu. It’s Mirka at Tolarno Hotel and its custodian is leading Melbourne restaurateur Guy Grossi.

A bastion of Italian restaurant culture and more Melbourne than Sydney in style, Fratelli Paradiso is a place where locals come for the ever-charming waiters as much as the gutsy food.

Yarra Valley’s newest addition, the Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander Winery, is more than the sum of its café, pizzeria and cellar door parts, thanks to a passionate and savvy wine entrepreneur.

We raise a glass to chef John Evans, who has crossed the Harbour Bridge to take over the kitchen at Rozelle’s Three Weeds, cooking the kind of assured food the city’s better pub bistros are built on.

Having won the hearts of South Australian diners, chef Virat Suandokmai brings a Nu taste of Thai to the North Shore.

Bistro Vue is the third act in Shannon Bennett’s CBD trilogy. He’s reworking the classics in a shamelessly faux Parisian setting.

Oscillate Wildly in Newtown is pushing the envelope, but that thankfully doesn’t apply to the bill – so go wild.

Nobu Melbourne has arrived at Crown and it’s rollicking good times whether on a budget or a blow-out.