Step inside Ben Devlin’s creative consciousness at Pipit, where the open kitchen brims with garums and tinctures and the chef-owner’s inky gyotaku prints adorn the walls. His imagination is anchored by technical finesse and a sustainable backbone, as seen in the raw baby vegetables teamed with tangy “waste paste”, or surgically diced tuna tartare lifted with preserved yuzu and cucumber. Even the fish-shaped buckwheat waffles are convincingly lifelike with crack-crisp shells and velvety mahi mahi filling. The sunny, assured team on the floor will likely steer you towards choosing the all-Australian wine pairing – a very wise move, as a skinsy Adelaide Hills rosé stands up to fire-licked swordfish atop robust eggplant ragù, and a 2020 cabernet franc brings structure and flavours of salty liquorice to a luscious duck with smoked beetroot and figs. Pipit doesn’t shout, but its sharp sense of place and refined coastal elegance rings out loud and clear.
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Sabine Bannard
