R by Raita Noda, Sydney NSW: Restaurant review

R by Raita Noda

An intimate omakase experience that puts flavour at the heart of the action.

SYDNEY

Address

Wunderlich Lane, Ground Floor, 2 Baptist St, Redfern NSW

This latest venture from father-son omakase duo Raita and Momotaro Noda is designed to energise multiple senses at once. Just 12 guests are seated along a bar in a stormcloud-grey space to eat a 10-course meal prepared in exacting detail in front of your eyes. Seafood dominates, sometimes in ways that feel familiar, like a John Dory tartare with fennel, soy and sancho pepper, but often featuring less common creatures of the sea, such as the New Zealand storm shell salad. Textures play a critical role in every dish: from the crunch of a cannonball jellyfish entrée, contrasting with a sweet-savoury tomato and melon consommé, to the airy puff of a rice cake and pliant wagyu that guests simmer themselves in a tiny cauldron of cottonseed oil. Sydney’s fascination with theatrical Japanese dining isn’t going anywhere, and this low-key, high-flavour concept is a top example of the genre.

Price Guide

$$$$$

Bookings

Essential

Wheelchair Access

Yes

Opening Hours

Dinner Tue-Sat

The Gourmet Traveller Team

Gourmet Traveller is Australia’s trusted authority on food, travel and luxury lifestyle, bringing the latest news and trends to life through quality journalism, enticing recipes and evocative photography. For more than 55 years, it has been inspiring and informing Australians with the best in cooking, dining, travelling and shopping. Our critics bring the expertise of years of critical eating, drinking and writing to the table. Plus, as the country’s leading title in the luxury sector, Gourmet Traveller works closely with Australia’s leaders in the travel and hospitality industries to give our readers exclusive access. The Gourmet Traveller legacy is one of trust, prestige and relevance.

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