This jewel box of a restaurant on the Hobart CBD fringe serves elegant, Japanese-inspired dishes for just 10 diners at a time. The new home of Luke Burgess (who ignited the local scene in 2010 with now-closed Garagistes), this cosy former confectionery store delivers refined plates that draw on local produce and Japanese techniques with a hint of Italy. Grilled rice cakes are wonderfully chewy, topped with a chunky spring onion sauce, thinly shaved celtuce and a flurry of electric-yellow bottarga. Ruby-hued venison carpaccio from Eaglehawk Neck is served with roasted poblano and bullhorn peppers in a subtly sweet vinegar dressing, while swordfish is paired with smooth tomato velouté and shaved fennel. Walk-ins are welcome for the Tuesday evening “tachinomi” sessions, a casual izakaya-inspired standing bar with snacks. A comprehensive wine and sake list and personable service are further reasons to celebrate Burgess’ welcome return.
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