Dinner at Snug comes with a few caveats. The space is true to its name, meaning groups of three or more might find themselves awkwardly positioned (perhaps all facing a wall). There’s a minimum of one dish and one drink per person, and bookings are only taken via Instagram. But look past the quirks and you’ll find some of the tastiest, most creative Korean-inspired food in town.
Take the honey bread. Made in the style of shokupan, with a fluffy white interior and a golden-brown crust, it’s served warm with roasted garlic butter and the option of shaved black truffle. Sweet, salty and earthy, it’s a carb lover’s dream.
Run by young couple Leaham Claydon and Jianne Jeoung, Snug made an immediate splash when it opened in an inner-Brisbane suburb last year. Its photogenic interior – featuring timber detailing, soft lighting and Korean-made ceramics – and dishes like prawn omurice became social media sensations, while a no-bookings policy made seats hard to come by. A wine bar service followed, which, fortunately, you can book.
At night, Claydon and Jeoung delve deeper into Korean cuisine with a clever menu devoted to anju (dishes designed to pair with drinks). Soy-marinated raw prawn and scallop pays homage to ganjang-gejang (marinated raw crab), delivering bold umami and spice – no claw-cracking required. A take on ssam sees yukhoe (beef tartare) mixed with sweet-spicy gochujang and topped with a raw egg yolk. It’s served with lettuce, pickled daikon, white kimchi and gim (seaweed sheets) for wrapping.
While half the menu is dedicated to punchy raw plates, Snug’s cooked dishes are just as impressive. Doenjang-marinated, roasted pork jowl is spoon-tender, served with a fruity red pepper relish and a complex beetroot and cherry blossom sauce that cuts through the richness. A warm, comforting persimmon and walnut tarte Tatin, its caramel teetering on bitter, is paired with milk sorbet.
The compact wine list leans lo-fi and domestic, rounded out with a few Old-World picks. Cocktails are smart, too, especially a Gimlet made with Roku gin and house-fermented maesil cheong (green plum syrup).
Claydon, who previously served as head chef at Yoko, says dinner hasn’t drawn quite the same crowd as the daytime trade. That’s surprising. There’s nowhere else doing Korean food with this level of creativity and quality in Brisbane. It may be tucked away in the suburbs, but it’s time people start getting around it – caveats and all.
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