Housed in the 1922 Marananga Primary School building, this artfully restored Barossa dining room offers generous communal plates inspired by chef Clare Falzon’s Maltese roots and childhood meals at her grandmother’s house. Tables are piled with hobz biz-zejt (thick slices of bread with olive oil, tomato and capers). A tumble of thinly sliced beef with white anchovy mayonnaise, sunflower seeds, currants and fresh mint is like a North African reboot of a classic Italian vitello tonnato, while mussels in Gorgonzola and white wine sauce are a slurp-fest of impressive depth and flavour. The wine offering is scrawled on a large blackboard encompassing European treasures and small Australian producers with whom Falzon has formed genuine connections. That’s key here, where the dahlia grower next door drops bunches of blooms to diners enjoying mocktails or peanut butter mousse on the verandah. This is a restaurant that schools us on what really matters: community.
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