Such and Such, Canberra: Restaurant review

The more casual city sibling to fine-diner Pilot is a spritely, youthful hit, ideal for that after-work cocktail that turns into a memorable late-night dinner. Influences span Thai – pork neck skewers with green tomato salsa – to Middle Eastern, with a chewy puck of sourdough flatbread slathered with garlic toum. Then there’s Europe meets Japan in agnolotti in umami-rich beurre blanc infused with dashi and yuzu. Housed in a shiny development overlooking the ACT Legislative Assembly, the room feels colourfully homey with textured green fabrics, lurid artworks and speckled pink terrazzo flooring. The soundtrack is pure bangers (hello, This Kiss, by Faith Hill), and the wine list includes impressive local natural zingers. Manager (and gun sommelier) Caitlin Baker is coolly confident, driving an eclectic offering that refuses to be categorised. There’s a sense the team takes unseriousness very seriously. If only every city had a Such and Such like this.

Price Guide

Bookings

Recommended

Wheelchair Access

Yes

Opening Hours

Lunch Tue-Fri; Dinner Mon-Sat

The Gourmet Traveller Team

Gourmet Traveller is Australia’s trusted authority on food, travel and luxury lifestyle, bringing the latest news and trends to life through quality journalism, enticing recipes and evocative photography. For more than 55 years, it has been inspiring and informing Australians with the best in cooking, dining, travelling and shopping. Our critics bring the expertise of years of critical eating, drinking and writing to the table. Plus, as the country’s leading title in the luxury sector, Gourmet Traveller works closely with Australia’s leaders in the travel and hospitality industries to give our readers exclusive access. The Gourmet Traveller legacy is one of trust, prestige and relevance.

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