The Brisbane spin-off of Andrew McConnell’s powerhouse Melbourne restaurant feels worlds apart thanks to its golden tones, indoor palms and river views. The Trader House DNA is still unmistakable, with attentive service, a splurge-worthy wine list and thoughtful touches, such as spiced pumpkin seeds on arrival. Chef Jason Barratt has steadily refined the menu to focus on lighter, seasonal fare and south-east Queensland produce, delivering dishes beyond the signature (and very good) lobster roll. A salad of golden beetroot, castelfranco and smoked tofu with black rice vinaigrette captures the sentiment, as does a bittersweet mandarin sorbet and caramelised honey gelato. Seafood is an apt focus, from precise slices of raw local snapper, cobia and salmon in a ponzu and lemon dressing to expertly steamed coral trout with ginger, shallot and aged soy. It may have taken a moment to settle but the place is now humming – polished, confident and grounded in a distinct sense of place.
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