Mischa Tropp laughs in the face of a “universal” Indian cuisine with his exploration of coastal Kerala’s southern specialties. Straddling the nexus between pungent, sour, sharp and hot, Toddy Shop’s sensory explosion saw him named last year’s GT Best New Talent. He’s since spun his formidable skills into the widescreen Crown venture Kolkata Cricket Club, where butter chicken and lamb kebabs get their premium produce-driven dues. It’s a deserving uplift of subcontinental food but your heart might remain with the arthouse brilliance of this Fitzroy OG. Whether it’s bone-in chicken in a peppery coconut gravy, nadan curry with barramundi enlivened by three varieties of chilli, or stir-fried cabbage thoran with a tickle of curry leaf, the cooling beetroot pachadi and tissue-like parota (fried bread) are non-negotiable. But before you embark on this funk odyssey, order an on-theme cocktail – a saffron-infused Bengali Martini should do nicely – and be transported by the cinematic, nostalgia-hued room.
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Ashley Ludkin
