Is there a connection between the hilltop setting of this designer cellar-door restaurant and the elevated cooking that’s become its calling card? Coincidence or otherwise, the partnership between culinary director Jed Gerrard and chef de cuisine Sergio Labbe continues to flourish, at least judging by the kitchen’s steady output of imaginative, artful dishes. Sweet Shark Bay prawn meat is blanketed by a celeriac cream electrified by dabs of finger lime, wasabi tobiko, jalapeño and green apple granita. This hide-and-seek routine gets revisited in a smoked ham and slow-cooked cabbage pastry cloaked in Gruyère sabayon, as well as line-caught dhufish shingled by discs of pumpkin in a vivid marron and lime butter. There’s a lot happening on the plate – and for poised and professional waiters to share with guests – yet this is cooking that never fails to be delicious. A diverse range of estate wines and calming vineyard views offer further excuses to linger a while longer.
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